in Fashioning Gothic bodies


Books and articles

Adams, James Eli, Dandies and Desert Saints: Styles of Victorian Manhood (Ithaca, NY, Cornell University Press 1995)

Alexander, John, The Films of David Lynch (London, Letts 1993)

Annesley, James, Blank Fictions (London, Pluto Press 1998)

Anon., ‘Sussed: News and Reviews’, in ‘The Whole Goddam World’s Gone Spooky’ (special issue), Scene, November 1997, pp. 12–29

Anon., ‘M.D. and MAD’, All the Year Round, 22 Feb. 1862, pp. 510–13

Auerbach, Nina, Our Vampires, Ourselves (Chicago, University of Chicago Press 1995)

Austen, Jane, Northanger Abbey, Lady Susan, The Watsons, and Sanditon ed. John Davie (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1971)

Bakhtin, Mikhail, Rabelais and His World trans. Helene Iswolsky (Bloomington, Indiana University Press 1984)

Baldick, Chris, In Frankenstein’s Shadow: Myth, Monstrosity and Nineteenth-century Writing (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1990)

_______ (ed.) The Oxford Book of Gothic Tales (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1992)

Ballaster, Ros, Beetham, Margaret, Frazer, Elizabeth and Hebron, Sandra, Women’s Worlds: Ideology, Femininity and the Woman’s Magazine (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1991)

Barbey d’Aurevilly, Jules, Dandyism trans. Douglas Ainslie (New York, PAJ Publications 1988)

Barron, Susannah and Boseley, Sarah, ‘Critics Bemoan Haute Couture’s Gothic Low Point’, Guardian, 7 July 1997

Baudelaire, Charles, ‘The Painter of Modern Life’ in Selected Writings on Art and Literature trans. P. E. Charvet (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1972)

Benjamin, Walter, Charles Baudelaire: A Lyric Poet in the Era of High Capitalism trans. Harry Zohn (London, Verso 1983)

Berger, John, Ways of Seeing (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1972)

Blain, Virginia, ‘Cross-Dressing in Fiction: Literary History and the Construction of Sexuality’ in Threadgold, Terry and Francis, Anne (eds.) Feminine, Masculine and Representation (London, Allen & Unwin 1990)

Bloom, Clive (ed.), Creepers: British Horror and Fantasy in the Twentieth Century (London, Pluto Press 1993)

Bogdan, Robert, Freak Show: Presenting Human Oddities for Amusement and Profit (Chicago, University of Chicago Press 1988)

Botting, Fred, Gothic (London, Routledge 1996)

Boucher, François, A History of Costume in the West trans. John Ross (London, Thames & Hudson 1987)

Bracewell, Michael, England is Mine: Pop Life in Albion from Wilde to Goldie (London, Flamingo 1998)

Braddon, Mary Elizabeth, Henry Dunbar: The Story of an Outcast (Leipzig, Bernhard Tauchnitz 1864)

_______ Lady Audley ‘s Secret ed. David Skilton (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1987)

Braithwaite, Brian, Women’s Magazines: The First 300 Years (London, Peter Owen 1995)

Breward, Christopher, The Culture of Fashion: A New History of Fashionable Dress (Manchester, Manchester University Press 1995)

_______ The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860–1914 (Manchester, Manchester University Press 1999)

_______ ‘The Dandy Laid Bare: Embodying Practices and Fashion For Men’ in Bruzzi, Stella and Gibson, Pamela Church, Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis (London, Routledge 2000)

Brite, Poppy Z., Drawing Blood (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1994)

_______ Lost Souls (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1994)

_______ Swamp Foetus (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1995)

_______ Exquisite Corpse (London, Phoenix 1997)

_______ The Crow: The Lazarus Heart (New York, Harper Collins 1998)

Bronfen, Elizabeth, Over Her Dead Body: Death, Femininity and the Aesthetic (Manchester, Manchester University Press 1992)

Brontë, Charlotte, Jane Eyre ed. Q D. Leavis (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1966)

_______ Villette ed. Mark Lilly, intro. Tony Tanner (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1985)

Brookner, Anita, Jacques Louis David (London, Chatto & Windus 1980)

Broughton, Rhoda, Dear Faustina (London, Richard Bentley & Son 1897)

Brown, Helen Gurley, Sex and the Single Girl (New York, Bernard Geis Associates 1962)

Bruhm, Steven, Gothic Bodies: The Politics of Pain in Romantic Fiction (Philadelphia, University of Pennsylvania Press 1994)

Bruzzi, Stella, Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies (London, Routledge 1997)

Bruzzi, Stella and Gibson, Pamela Church (eds.), Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis (London, Routledge 2000)

Bulwer-Lytton, Edward, Pelham, or Adventures of a Gentleman (Kila, MT, Kessinger Publishing 1999)

Burgin, Victor (ed.), Thinking Photography (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1982)

Burke, Edmund, A Philosophical Enquiry into the Origin of our Ideas of the Sublime and the Beautiful ed. Adam Phillips (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1990)

_______ Reflections on the Revolution in France ed. Conor Cruise O’Brien (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1986)

Burrows, Adrienne and Schumacher, Iwan, Portraits of the Insane: The Case of Dr Diamond (London, Quartet 1990)

Burton, Tim, Burton on Burton ed. Mark Salisbury (London, Faber & Faber 1995)

Butler, Judith, Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity (London, Routledge 1990)

Carlyle, Thomas, Sartor Resartus ed. Kerry McSweeney and Peter Sabor (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1987)

Carter, Angela, Shaking a Leg: Journalism and Writings (London, Chatto & Windus 1997)

Cartright, Garth, ‘Casket Cases’, Guardian, 16 Feb. 1998, pp. 12–13

Castle, Terry, ‘The Spectralization of the Other in The Mysteries of Udolpho’ in Nussbaum, Felicity and Brown, Laura (eds.), The New Eighteenth Century: Theory, Politics, Literature (London, Methuen 1987)

Cave, Nick, And the Ass Saw the Angel (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1990)

Chion, Michael, David Lynch trans. Robert Julian (London, BFI 1995)

Cigarettes, Johnny and Oldham, James, ‘But for the Grace of Goth’, Vox, Aug. 1997, pp. 64–5

Cleaver, Hannah, ‘Monsters Inc’, The Face 3:62, Apr. 2002, pp. 146–50

Clery, E. J., The Rise of Supernatural Fiction, 1762–1800 (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press 1995)

Coates, Paul, The Double and the Other: Identity as Ideology in Post-Romantic Fiction (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1988)

Cohen, Stanley, Folk Devils and Moral Panics: The Creation of the Mods and the Rockers rev. edn (Oxford, Martin Robertson 1980)

Collins, Wilkie, The Woman in White ed. Harvey Peter Sucksmith (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1973)

_______ The Law and the Lady ed. Jenny Bourne Taylor (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1992)

_______ The Moonstone (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1994)

_______ Poor Miss Finch ed. Catherine Peters (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1995)

Connor, Steven, Charles Dickens (Oxford, Basil Black well 1985)

_______ Postmodernist Culture (Oxford, Blackwell 1989)

Conolly, John, An Inquiry Concerning the Indications of Insanity with Suggestions for the Better Protection and Care of the Insane ed. Richard Hunter & Ida Mac Alpine (London, Dawsons of Pall Mall 1964)

_______The Construction and Government of Lunatic Asylums and Hospitals for the Insane ed. Richard Hunter and Ida Mac Alpine (London, Dawsons of Pall Mall 1968)

_______ Treatment of the Insane Without Mechanical Restraints ed. Richard Hunter and Ida MacAlpine (London, Dawsons of Pall Mall 1973)

_______ ‘Extracts from The Physiognomy of Insanity’ in Burrows, Adrienne & Schumacher, Iwan, Portraits of the Insane: The Case of Dr. Diamond (London, Quartet 1990)

Cornwell, Tim, ‘Shopping and Sucking – That’s Being a Vampire, LA-Style’, Independent on Sunday, 8 Feb. 1998, p. 7

Craik, Jennifer, The Face of Fashion (New York and London, Routledge 1994)

Cunnington, C. Willett, English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century (London, Fabe & Faber 1937)

The Cure, Songwords 1978–1989 (London, Fiction/Omnibus Press 1989)

Dacre, Charlotte, Zofloya, or, the Moor ed. Kim Ian Michasiw (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1997)

Davenport-Hines, Richard, Gothic: Four Hundred Years of Excess, Horror, Evil and Ruin (London, Fourth Estate 1998)

Davis, Natalie Zemon, Society and Culture in Early Modern France (Stanford, CA, Stanford University Press 1975)

Day, William Patrick, In the Circles of Fear and Desire: A Study of Gothic Fantasy (Chicago, University of Chicago Press 1985)

Defoe, Daniel, Roxana ed. Jane Jack (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1964)

De La Haye, Amy and Dingwall, Cathie, Surfers Soulies Skinheads Skaters: Subcultural Style from the Forties to the Nineties (London, V&A Publications 1996)

Delamotte, Eugenia C, Perils of the Night: A Feminist Study of Nineteenth-Century Gothic (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1990)

Dellamora, Richard, Masculine Desire: The Sexual Politics of Victorian Aestheticism (Chapel Hill, NC, University of North Carolina Press 1990)

Diamond, H. W., ‘On the Application of Photography to the Physiognomic and Mental Phenomena of Insanity’ in Burrows, Adrienne and Schmacher, Iwan, Portraits of the Insane: The Case of Dr. Diamond (London, Quartet 1990)

Dickens, Charles, Hard Times ed. David Craig (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1969)

_______ Great Expectations (London, Everyman 1979)

_______ Bleak House ed. Norman Page (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1985)

_______ Sketches by Boz and Other Early Papers 1833–39 ed. Michael Slater (Columbus, Ohio State University Press 1994)

Dijkstra, Bram, Idols of Perversity: Fantasies of Feminine Evil in Fin-de-Siecle Culture (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1986)

Doyle, Arthur Conan, The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1994)

Du Maurier, Daphne, Rebecca (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1962)

Du Maurier, George, Trilby ed. Daniel Pick (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1994)

Edmundson, Mark, Nightmare on Main Street: Angels, Sadomasochism and the Gothic (Cambridge, MA, Harvard University Press 1997)

Ellis, Kate Ferguson, The Contested Castle: Gothic Novels and the Subversion of Domestic Ideology (Chicago, University of Illinois Press 1989)

Esquirol, J. E. D, Mental Maladies: A Treatise on Insanity (New York, Hafner Publishing Co. 1965)

Evans, Caroline, ‘Dreams that only Money can Buy … Or, the Shy Tribe in Flight from Discourse’, Fashion Theory 1:2, 1997, pp. 169–88

Evans, Caroline and Thornton, Minna, Women and Fashion: A New Look (London, Quartet 1989)

Ewing, Elizabeth, Dress and Undress: A History of Women’s Underwear (London, Batsford 1989)

Favazza, Armando R., Bodies Under Siege: Self-Mutilation and Body Modification in Culture and Psychiatry 2nd edn (Baltimore, Johns Hopkins University Press 1996)

Fiedler, Leslie, Freaks: Myths and Images of the Secret Self (New York, Simon & Schuster 1978)

Fischer, Gail Veronica, ‘A Matter of Wardrobe? Mary Edwards Walker, a Nineteenth-Century American Cross-Dresser’, Fashion Theory 2:3, 1998, pp. 245–68

Forrest, Emma, ‘Grimly Fiendish’, The Face 2:98, Nov. 1996, p. 191

Forster, Margaret, Daphne du Maurier (London, Chatto & Windus 1993)

Foucault, Michel, The History of Sexuality Volume 1: An Introduction trans. Robert Hurley (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1990)

_______ Discipline and Punish trans. Alan Sheridan (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1991)

Freud, Sigmund, ‘The Uncanny’, in Standard Edition of the Complete Psychological Works, vol. 17, trans. James Strachey (London, Hogarth Press 1955)

Gagnier, Regenia, Idylls of the Marketplace: Oscar Wilde and the Victorian Public (Aldershot, Scolar Press 1986)

Garber, Marjorie, Vested Interests: Cross-Dressing and Cultural Anxiety (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1992)

Garelick, Rhonda K., Rising Star: Dandyism, Gender and Performance in the Fin-de-Siecle (Princeton, NJ, Princeton University Press 1998)

Gelder, Ken, Reading the Vampire (London, Routledge 1994)

_______ ‘The Vampire Writes Back: Anne Rice and the (Re)Turn of the Author in the Field of Cultural Production’ in Cartmell, Deborah, Hunter, I. Q, Kaye, Heidi and Whelehan, Imelda (eds.), Pulping Fictions: Consuming Culture Across the Literature/Media Divide (London, Pluto Press 1996)

Gelder, Ken and Thornton, Sarah, The Subcultures Reader (London, Routledge 1997)

Gilbert, Sandra and Gubar, Susan (eds.). The Madwoman in the Attic (New Haven, CT, Yale University Press 1979)

Gilbey, Ryan, ‘Doom Generation: New Tales from the Dark Side’, The Face 3:4, May 1997, pp. 116–22

Gilman, Sander L., Seeing the Insane (New York, John Wiley & Sons 1982)

_______ Disease and Representation: Images of Illness from Madness to AIDS (Ithaca, NY, Cornell University Press 1988)

_______ Making the Body Beautiful: A Cultural History of Aesthetic Surgery (Princeton, NJ, Princeton University Press 1999)

_______ (ed.) The Face of Madness: Hugh W Diamond and the Origin of Psychiatric Photography (New York, Brunner/Mazel 1976)

Gilmour, Robin, The Idea of the Gentleman in the Victorian Novel (London, George Allen & Unwin 1981)

Gordon, Joan and Hollinger, Veronica (eds.), Blood Read: The Vampire as Metaphor in Contemporary Culture (Philadelphia, University of Pennsylvania Press 1997)

Graham, Peter W and Oehlschlaeger, Fritz H., Articulating the Elephant Man: Joseph Merrick and his Interpreters (Baltimore, Johns Hopkins University Press 1992)

Grunenberg, Christoph (ed.), Gothic: Transmutations of Horror in Late Twentieth Century Art (Cambridge, MA, MIT Press 1997)

Halberstam, Judith, Skin Shows: Gothic Horror and the Technology of Monsters (Durham, NC and London, Duke University Press 1995)

Hall, Stuart and Jefferson, Tony (eds.), Resistance Through Rituals: Youth Subcultures in Post-War Britain (London, Hutchinson 1976)

Hart, Lynda, Fatal Women: Lesbian Sexuality and the Mark of Aggression (London, Routledge 1994)

Hart, Justina, ‘Necks and Drugs and Rock’n’Roll, Guardian, 3 Sept. 1998

Harvey, John, Men in Black (London, Reaktion Books 1995)

Heath, Ashley, ‘The Return of Goth?’, The Face 2:56, May 1993, p. 37

Hebdige, Dick, Subculture: The Meaning of Style (London, Routledge 1988)

Hermes, Joke, Reading Women’s Magazines: An Analysis of Everyday Media Use (Cambridge, Polity Press 1995)

Hogg, James, The Private Memoirs and Confessions of a Justified Sinner: Written by Himself (Edinburgh, Canongate 1991)

Holladay, William E. and Watt, Steven, ‘Viewing the Elephant Man’, PMLA 104, 1989, pp. 868–81

Hollander, Anne, Seeing Through Clothes (Berkeley, University of California Press 1993)

_______ Sex and Suits: The Evolution of Modern Dress (New York, Kodansha 1995)

Hollinger, Karen, In the Company of Women: Contemporary Female Friendship Films (Minneapolis, University of Minnesota Press 1998)

Horner, Avril and Zlosnik, Sue, Daphne du Maurier: Writing, Identity and the Gothic Imagination (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1998)

Howard, Jacqueline, Reading Gothic Fiction: A Bakhtinian Approach (Oxford, Clarendon Press 1994)

Howell, Michael and Ford, Peter, The True History of the Elephant Man (London, Allison and Busby 1980)

Howells, Coral Ann, Love, Mystery and Misery: Feeling in Gothic Fiction (London, Athlone Press 1978)

Hurley, Kelly, The Novel of the Gothic Body: Deviance, Abjection, and Late-Victorian Popular Fiction (unpub. Stanford University PhD thesis, 1988)

_______ The Gothic Body: Sexuality, Materialism, and Degeneration at the Fin de Siècle (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press 1996)

Hutcheon, Linda, A Poetics of Postmodernism: History, Theory, Fiction (London, Routledge 1988)

Huysmans, Joris-Karl, Against Nature trans. Margaret Mauldon, ed. Nicholas White (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1998)

James, Henry, ‘Mary Elizabeth Braddon’ in James, Henry, Literary Criticism ed. Leon Edel (New York, Library of America 1984)

Jenkins, Henry, Textual Poachers: Television Fans and Participatory Culture (London, Routledge 1992)

Jobling, Paul, Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography Since 1980 (Oxford, Berg 1999)

Johnson, Claudia L., Equivocal Beings: Politics, Gender and Sentimentality in the 1790s: Wollstonecraft, Radcliffe, Burney, Austen (Chicago, University of Chicago Press 1995)

Jordanova, Ludmilla, Sexual Visions (Hemel Hempstead, Harvester Wheatsheaf 1989)

Kaleta, Kenneth C, David Lynch (New York, Twayne Publishers 1993)

Kaplan, Joel H. and Stowell, Sheila, Theatre and Fashion: Oscar Wilde to the Suffragettes (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press 1994)

Kaveney, Roz (ed.), Reading the Vampire Slayer: An Unofficial Critical Companion to Buffy and Angel (London, Tauris Parke 2001)

Kayser, Wolfgang, The Grotesque in Art and Literature trans. Ulrich Weisstein (Bloomington, Indiana University Press 1963)

Keats, John, Complete Poetical Works ed. H. W Garrod (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1970)

Keenan, William J. F. (ed.), Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part (Oxford, Berg 2001)

Kemp, Martin and Wallace, Marina, Spectacular Bodies: The Art and Science of the Human Body from Leonardo to Now (London, Hayward Gallery Publishing 2000)

Kilgour, Maggie, The Rise of the Gothic Novel (London, Routledge 1995)

Kline, Salli J., The Degeneration of Women: Bram Stoker’s Dracula as Allegorical Criticism of the Fin-de-Siecle (Rheinbach-Merzbach, CMZ-Verlag 1992)

Kristeva, Julia, Powers of Horror: An Essay on Abjection trans. Leon S. Roudiez (New York, Columbia University Press 1982)

Kunzle, David, Fashion and Fetishism: A Social History of the Corset, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body-Sculpture in the West (London, George Prior 1982)

Lee, Simon, David (London, Phaidon 1999)

Le Fanu, J. Sheridan, Uncle Silas ed. W J. McCormack (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1981)

_______ The Rose and the Key intro. Julian Crowley (Stroud, Sutton 1994)

_______ Checkmate intro. Jessica de Mellow (Stroud, Sutton 1997)

Lewis, Matthew G, The Monk ed. Harold Anderson, intro. Emma McEvoy (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1995)

Light, Alison, Forever England: Femininity, Literature and Conservatism Between the Wars (London, Routledge 1991)

Luck, Kate, ‘Trouble in Eden, Trouble With Eve: Women, Trousers and Utopian Socialism in Nineteenth-Century America’ in Ash, Juliet and Wilson, Elizabeth (eds.), Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader (London, Pandora 1992)

Lurie, Alison, The Language of Clothes (London, Heinemann 1981)

Mannix, Daniel P., Freaks: We Who Are Not As Others (San Francisco, RE/Search Publications 1990)

Marcus, Tony, ‘New Romantic’, i-D 188, July 1999, pp. 88–90

Marsh, Richard, The Beetle (Stroud, Sutton 1994)

Martin, Richard and Koda, Harold, Infra-Apparel (New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art 1993)

Mason, Stuart, Oscar Wilde: Art and Morality: A Record of the Discussion Which Followed the Publication of ‘Dorian Gray’ rev. edn (London 1912)

Matlock, Jann, ‘Masquerading Women, Pathologized Men: Cross-Dressing, Fetishism, and the Theory of Perversion, 1882–1935’ in Apter, Emily and Pietz, William (eds), Fetishism as Cultural Discourse (Ithaca, NY, Cornell University Press 1993)

Maturin, Charles, Melmoth the Wanderer ed. David Grant, intro. Chris Baldick (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1989)

Maudsley, Henry, Responsibility in Mental Disease (London, Henry S. King and Co. 1874)

McClintock, Anne, Imperial Leather: Race, Gender and Sexuality in the Colonial Contest (London, Routledge 1995)

McCracken, Ellen, Decoding Women’s Magazines: From Mademoiselle to Ms. (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1993)

McDowell, Colin, The Literary Companion to Fashion (London, Sinclair-Stevenson 1995)

_______ ‘Depravity Bites’, Guardian Weekend, 9 Aug. 1997

McGrath, Roberta, ‘Medical Police’, Ten 8, 14, 1984, pp. 13–18

McNay, Lois, Foucault and Feminism (Oxford, Polity Press 1992)

Mercer, Mick, The Gothic Rock Black Book (London, Omnibus 1988)

_______ Gothic Rock (Birmingham, Pegasus 1991)

Mighall, Robert, A Geography of Victorian Gothic Fiction: Mapping History’s Nightmares (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1999)

Miles, Robert, Gothic Writing 1750–1820: A Genealogy (London, Routledge 1993)

_______ Ann Radcliffe: The Great Enchantress (Manchester, Manchester University Press 1995)

Miller, Karl, Doubles: Studies in Literary History (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1987)

Moers, Ellen, The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm (London, Seeker & Warburg 1960)

_______ Literary Women (London, W. H. Allen 1978)

Montagu, Ashley, The Elephant Man: A Study in Human Dignity (Lafayette, LA, Acadian House 1996)

Moore, Allan J., ‘The Cosmo Girl: A Playboy Inversion’ in Theobald, Robert (ed.), Dialogue on Women (New York, Bobbs-Merrill 1967)

Napier, Elizabeth, The Failure of Gothic: Problems of Disjunction in an Eighteenth Century Literary Form (Oxford, Clarendon Press 1987)

Nordau, Max, Degeneration (London, William Heinemann 1896)

Norton, Rictor, Mistress of Udolpho: The Life of Ann Radcliffe (London, Leicester University Press 1998)

Page, Carol, Bloodlust: Conversations with Real Vampires (London, Warner 1993)

Paine, Thomas, Rights of Man ed. Eric Foner (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1985)

Paulson, Ronald, Representations of Revolution (1789–1820) (New Haven, CT, Yale University Press 1983)

Pine, Richard, The Dandy and the Herald: Manners, Mind and Morals from Brummell to Durrell (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1988)

Polhemus, Ted, Street Style: From Sidewalk to Catwalk (London, Thames & Hudson 1994)

_______ Style Surfing: What to Wear in the Next Millennium (London, Thames & Hudson 1996)

Polhemus, Ted and Randall, Housk, The Customised Body (London, Serpent’s Tail 1996)

Polidori, John, ‘The Vampyre’, in Baldick, C. and Morrison, R. (eds.), The Vampyre and Other Tales of the Macabre (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1997)

Powell, Kerry, ‘Tom, Dick, and Dorian Gray: Magic-Picture Mania in Late Victorian Fiction’, Philological Quarterly, Spring 1983, pp. 147–70

Praz, Mario (ed.), Three Gothic Novels: The Castle of Otranto, Vathek, Frankenstein (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1968)

Punter, David, The Literature of Terror: A History of Gothic Fictions from 1765 to the Present Day. Volume 1: The Gothic Tradition rev. 2nd edn (London, Longman 1996)

_______ The Literature of Terror: A History of Gothic Fictions from 1765 to the Present Day. Volume 2: The Modern Gothic, rev. 2nd edn (London, Longman 1996)

_______ (ed.), A Companion to the Gothic (Oxford, Blackwell 2000)

Pykett, Lyn, The ‘Improper Feminine’: The Women’s Sensation Novel and the New Woman Writing (London, Routledge 1992)

_______ The Sensation Novel (Plymouth, Northcote House 1994)

Radcliffe, Ann, The Mysteries of Udolpho ed. Bonamy Dobree (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1980)

_______ The Italian ed. Frederick Garber (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1981)

_______ The Romance of the Forest ed. Chloe Chard (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1986)

_______ A Sicilian Romance ed. Alison Milbank (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1993)

Radford, Tim, ‘Chasing Demons’, Guardian, 4 Nov. 1997

Ramsland, Katherine, Piercing the Darkness: Undercover with Vampires in America Today (London, Boxtree 1999)

Rance, Nicholas, Wilkie Collins and Other Sensation Novelists: Walking the Moral Hospital (Basingstoke, Macmillan 1991)

Reynolds, Simon and Press, Joy, The Sex Revolts: Gender, Rebellion and Rock’n’Roll (London, Serpent’s Tail 1995)

Ribeiro, Aileen, A Visual History of Costume: The Eighteenth Century (London, Batsford 1983)

_______ Dress and Morality (London, Batsford 1986)

_______ Fashion in the French Revolution (London, Batsford 1988)

_______ The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820 (New Haven, CT, Yale University Press 1995)

Rice, Anne, Interview with the Vampire (London, Futura/Warner 1994)

_______ The Queen of the Damned (London, Futura/Warner 1994)

_______ The Vampire Lestat (London, Futura/Warner 1994)

Rich, Adrienne, ‘Compulsory Heterosexuality and Lesbian Existence’ in Snitow, A., Stanstell, C. and Thompson, S., Desire: The Politics of Sexuality (London, Virago 1986)

Riviere, Joan, ‘Womanliness as Masquerade’, in Burgin, V., Donald, J. and Kaplan, C. (eds.), Formations of Fantasy (London, Methuen 1986)

Robbins, Ruth and Wolfreys, Julian (eds.), Victorian Gothic: Literary and Cultural Manifestations in the Nineteenth Century (Basingstoke, Palgrave 2000)

Rosenberg, John D., Carlyle and the Burden of History (Oxford, Clarendon Press 1985)

Rothfield, Lawrence, Vital Signs: Medical Realism in Nineteenth Century Fiction (Princeton NJ, Princeton University Press 1992)

Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, Emile, or On Education trans. Allan Bloom (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1991)

Rubinstein, Ruth P., Dress Codes: Meanings and Messages in American Culture (Oxford, Westview Press 1995)

Sage, Victor and Smith, Allan Lloyd, Modern Gothic: A Reader (Manchester, Manchester University Press 1996)

Sales, Roger, “Feasting with Panthers”, Dandyism, Doubleness and Destruction with Particular Reference to The Picture of Dorian Gray,’ Conference paper given at Victorian Gothic, University of East Anglia, 1998

Samuel, Raphael, Theatres of Memory: Volume 1: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture (London, Verso 1994)

Sedgwick, Eve Kosofsky, Between Men: English Literature and Male Homosocial Desire (New York, Columbia University Press 1985)

_______ The Coherence of Gothic Conventions rev. edn (London, Methuen 1986)

Sekula, Allan, ‘The Body and the Archive’, October, 39, 1986, pp. 3–64

Shelley, Mary, Frankenstein in Three Gothic Novels ed. Mario Praz (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1968)

Sheumaker, Helen, “This Lock You See”: Nineteenth Century Hair Work and the Commodified Self, Fashion Theory 1:4, 1997, pp. 421–46

Showaiter, Elaine, The Female Malady (London, Virago 1987)

_______ Sexual Anarchy: Gender and Culture at the Fin-de-Siecle (London, Virago 1992)

Shuttleworth, Sally, Charlotte Brontë and Victorian Psychology (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press 1996)

Silver, Alain and Ursini, James, The Vampire Film: From Nosferatu’ to ‘Interview With The Vampire’ rev. edn (New York, Limelight 1997)

Skal, David J., Hollywood Gothic: The Tangled Web of ‘Dracula’ from Stage to Screen (London, André Deutsch 1992)

Small, Helen, Love’s Madness: Medicine, the Novel, and Female Insanity, 1800–1865 (Oxford, Clarendon Press 1998)

Smiles, Samuel, Self Help with Illustrations of Conduct and Perseverance (London, IEA Health and Welfare Unit 1997)

Smith, Andrew, ‘Pathologising the Gothic: The Elephant Man, the Neurotic and the Doctor’, Gothic Studies 2:3, Dec. 2000, pp. 292–304

Smith, Jim and Matthews, J. Clive, Tim Burton (London, Virgin 2002)

Sontag, Susan, ‘Notes on Camp’ in A Susan Sontag Reader (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1983)

Steele, Valerie, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1985)

_______ Paris Fashion: A Cultural History (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1988)

_______ Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1996)

_______ The Corset: A Cultural History (New Haven, CT, Yale University Press 2001)

Stevenson, Robert Louis, The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr Hyde, and Other Stories (London, Everyman 1992)

Stoker, Bram, Dracula ed. Maurice Hindle (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1993)

_______ The Mystery of the Sea intro. Jessica de Mellow (Stroud, Sutton 1997)

Sweet, Matthew, ‘Introduction’ to Collins, Wilkie, The Woman in White (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1999)

_______ Inventing the Victorians (London, Faber & Faber 2001)

Taylor, Jenny Bourne, In the Secret Theatre of Home: Wilkie Collins, Sensation Narrative, and Nineteenth Century Psychology (London, Routledge 1988)

Tennant, Emma, Queen of Stones and Alice Fell (London, Faber & Faber 1987)

_______ Travesties: The Bad Sister, Two Women of London, Faustine (London, Faber & Faber 1995)

Thorne, Tony, Children of the Night: Of Vampires and Vampirism (London, Indigo 1999)

Thornton, Sarah, Club Cultures: Music, Media and Subcultural Capital (Cambridge, Polity Press 1995)

Tinkler, Penny, Constructing Girlhood: Popular Magazines for Girls Growing Up in England 1920–1950 (London, Taylor & Francis 1995)

Treves, Frederick, ‘The Elephant Man’ in Howell, Michael and Ford, Peter, The True History of the Elephant Man (London, Allison & Busby 1980)

Turner, T., ‘The Social Skin’ in Cherfas, T. and Lewin, R. (eds.), Not Work Alone: A Cross Cultural View of Activities Superfluous to Human Survival (London, Temple Smith 1980)

Vigée-Lebrun, Elisabeth, The Memoirs of Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun trans. Sian Evans (London, Camden Press 1989)

Walkowitz, Judith R., City of Dreadful Delight: Narratives of Sexual Danger in Late-Victorian London (London, Virago 1992)

Warwick, Alexandra and Cavallaro, Dani, Fashioning the Frame: Boundaries, Dress and the Body (Oxford, Berg 1998)

Weeks, Jeffrey, Sex, Politics and Society: The Regulation of Sexuality since 1800 (London, Longman 1989)

Wells, H. G., The Invisible Man (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1946)

Whitworth, Damian, ‘Gloomy Tribal Craze that was Born in Britain’, The Times, 22 April 1999

Wilde, Oscar, The Writings of Oscar Wilde ed. Isobel Murray (Oxford, Oxford University Press 1989)

Willett, C. and Cunnington, Phillis, The History of Underclothes (London, Faber & Faber 1981)

Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London, Virago 1985)

_______ The Sphinx in the City: Urban Life, the Control of Disorder, and Women (London, Virago 1991)

_______ ‘Bohemian Dress and the Heroism of Everyday Life’, Fashion Theory 2:3, 1998, pp. 225–244

Winship, Janice, Inside Women’s Magazines (London, Pandora Press 1987)

Wollstonecraft, Mary, Political Writings ed. Janet Todd (London, William Pickering 1993)

_______ A Vindication of the Rights of Woman ed. Miriam Brody (Harmondsworth, Penguin 1992)

Yalom, Marilyn, A History of the Breast (London, Rivers Oram Press 1998)

Zdatny, Steven, ‘The Boyish Look and the Liberated Woman: The Politics and Aesthetics of Women’s Hairstyles’, Fashion Theory 1:4, 1997, pp. 367–98

Fashion spreads

‘Black White Red Magic’, photographer Paolo Roversi, stylist Edward Enninful. i-D 175 (May 1998) pp. 82–93

‘Bonne Nuit le Petit’, photographer Blinkk, stylist Karina Jefferey. Dazed and Confused 61 (Sept. 2001) pp. 218–27

‘Brother Wolf and Sister Moon’, photographer Willy Vanderperre, stylist Olivier Rizzo. i-D 194 (Jan./Feb. 2000), pp. 96–9

‘Cathy Come Home’, photographer Fabio Chizzola. Elle (April 1999) pp. 180–91

‘The Clinic’, photographer Sean Ellis, stylist Isabella Blow. The Face 3:2 (March 1997) pp. 98–107

‘Death Valley High’, photographer Phil Poynter, stylist Charlotte Stockdale. The Face 3:51 (April 2001) pp. 110–21

‘Future World’, photographer Troy Ward, stylist Sarah Walter. Marie Claire 87 (Nov. 1995) pp. 208–15

‘Goth Almighty’, photographer Eitan, stylist Rebecca Leary. Guardian Weekend June 15 1996 pp. 38–9

‘The Intrepid Fox’, photographer Lee Jenkins, stylist Grace Cobb. The Face 3:44 (Sept. 2000) pp. 214–21

‘Malice In Wonderland’, photographer Mario Sorrenti, stylist Annett Monnheim. The Face 3:14 (March 1998) pp. 112–17

‘Period Drama’, photographer Martina Hoogland Ivanow, stylist Alister Mackie. Dazed and Confused 47 (Oct. 1998) pp. 126–31

‘She’s In Parties’, photographer David Sims, stylist Nancy Rohde. The Face 2:78 (March 1995) pp. 78–83

‘Simplex Concordia’, photographer Andrea Giacobbe, stylist Maida. The Face 2: 94 (July 1996) pp. 90–9

‘Sisters of Mercy’, photographer Greg Lotus, stylist Patti Wilson. i-D 211 (July 2001) pp. 72–9

‘Spook!’, photographer Peter Robathan, stylist Yvonne Sporre. The Face 2:56 (May 1993) pp. 98–105

‘Taste of Arsenic’, photographer Sean Ellis, stylist Isabella Blow. The Face 2:97 (October 1996) pp. 90–7

‘The Unexplained’, photographer Lee Jenkins, stylist Joanna Thaw. The Face 3:96 (March 1999) pp. 122–33

‘Untitled 5’, photographer Corinne Day, stylist Panos Yiapanis. i-D 201 (Sept. 2000) pp. 302–9

‘Untitled 6’, photographer Jeremy Murch, stylist Sarah Richardson. i-D 201 (Sept. 2000) pp. 310–17

‘The Wanderer’, photographer Tesh, fashion director Edward Enninful. i-D 215 (Nov. 2001)

‘Which Witch Is Which?’, photographer Lee Jenkins, stylist Judy Blame. The Face 3:6 (July 1997) pp. 156–63

Film and visual media

Beetlejuice (Tim Burton, 1988)

Bram Stoker’s Dracula (Francis Ford Coppola, 1992)

Buffy the Vampire Slayer Season 2, Episode 6, ‘Hallowe’en’ (written by Carl Ellsworth, directed by Bruce Seth Green, created by Joss Whedon, 1997)

Clueless (Amy Heckerling, 1995)

The Craft (Andrew Fleming, 1996)

The Elephant Man (David Lynch, 1980)

The Faculty (Robert Rodriguez, 1998)

Frozen, Madonna promotional video (Chris Cunningham, 1998)

Heathers (Michael Lehmann, 1989)

Pretty in Pink (Howard Deutsch, 1986)

Rebecca (Alfred Hitchcock, 1940)

She’s All That (Robert Iscove, 1998)

Silence of the Lambs (Jonathan Demme, 1991)

Single White Female (Barbet Schroeder, 1992)

Tim Burton’s The Nightmare Before Christmas (Henry Sellick, 1993)

Vincent (Tim Burton, 1982)

Selected discography

All About Eve, Scarlet and Other Stories (Phonogram, 1989)

Bauhaus, Bela Lugosi’s Dead (Small Wonder, 1979)

_______ Burning From the Inside (Beggars Banquet, 1982)

_______ The Sky’s Gone Out (Beggars Banquet, 1983)

The Cure, The Top (Fiction, 1983)

_______ Standing on a Beach: The Singles (Fiction, 1986)

_______ Kiss Me, Kiss Me, Kiss Me (Fiction, 1987)

Siouxsie and the Banshees, Once Upon a Time: The Singles (Polydor, 1981)

The Sisters of Mercy, Alice (Merciful Release, 1983)

_______ Floodland (Merciful Release, 1987)

_______ Vision Thing (Merciful Release, 1992)

Various Artists, Nocturnal (Procreate, 1998)

Selected electronic sources

Alexander Mcqueen,

A Study of Gothic Subculture: An Inside Look for Outsiders,

Gothic.Net 5.0,

Poppy Z. Brite Official Website,

Hogle, Jerrold E., ‘The Ghost of the Counterfeit – and the Closet – in The Monk\ Romanticism on the Net (Nov. 1997),

Tuite, Clara, ‘Cloistered Closets: Enlightenment Pornography, the Confessional State, Homosexual Persecution and The Monk”, Romanticism on the Net (Now. 1997), users.ox.



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