Nicolas Dot-Pouillard
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Drinking in Hamra
Youthful nostalgia in Beirut?
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The history of Hamra Street in west Beirut is linked to the distinctive sociability of its cafés. It has supplanted the legendary Rue Monnot in the eastern part of the city, which was the centre of Lebanese nightlife in the 1990s but is now deserted. Theatres and cinemas (al-Medina, Metro), small venues catering to a new, alternative Lebanese music scene (Democratic Republic of Music), bookshops (Orientale, Antoine), publishing houses and daily papers (as-Safir) link back to the pre–civil war period, when Hamra was one of the epicentres of the city’s political and cultural life. Business people and office workers rub shoulders with the ‘wretched of the earth’. The young crowd seems more political: the close-knit alternative scene of Lebanon’s artists exists next to that of young activists of the radical left and of the Lebanese Communist Party, of young Palestinians working for various NGOs, and, more recently, certain Syrian oppositionists. Yet these different spaces are not completely isolated from each other. Ways of appropriating the street’s cafés are based on a form of imitation. Hamra remains the symbolic centre for those young people who see themselves as the political heirs of earlier generations. They may be members of one of the many left-wing organisations, or intellectuals involved in the voluntary sector or the media. The café space facilitates unusual networks in which the familial and the partisan can easily coexist. Anti-globalist and far-left Europeans and North Americans, who either visit the city or live there, are also drawn to Hamra.

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Arab youths

Leisure, culture and politics from Morocco to Yemen

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