Ben Jackson
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Discerning consumer
Possessing the self
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Chapter 4 explores men’s consumption and use of fashionable accessories. Examining cases of stolen toothpick cases, snuffboxes, and canes in the Proceedings of the Old Bailey, the chapter reveals the ubiquity of these accessories across the social hierarchy. Yet how do we square this widespread ownership of ‘trifling baubles’ with wider issues of material, aesthetic, and technological discernment which became increasingly prized in a period of burgeoning mass consumption? The manufacturing and demand for ‘superfluities’, such as snuffboxes, canes, and toothpicks supposedly drove the consumer revolution. In this climate, conservative moralists vociferously attacked the effeminacy of men’s consumption of trifling things. Yet these novel goods’ aesthetic innovation, manufacturing ingenuity, consumer novelty, and ability to denote sophistication enabled consumers to display their consumer discernment and material knowledge. The chapter demonstrates that owning an object such as a snuffbox was not enough to claim elite status, discernment, and refinement but that materials and finish materialised social distinction. Middling men also sought to materially demarcate their own status through the development of a middling aesthetic regime. Discernment and distinction, too, were displayed in the social choreographies of their use in respectable and fashionable society. Thus these objects were key instruments of masculine identity and social distinction. They were also significant in familial and dynastic practices and passed on by men and women. These objects were material conduits to emotions and memory and that personal property was deeply personal and instrumental to sense of selfhood.

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Material masculinities

Men and goods in eighteenth-century England

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