Pierre-Yves Donzé
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Development of the Oyster (1920–1945)
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Chapter 2 focuses on innovation, especially of the waterproof watch Oyster (1926). The idea is to put this watch back into the general context of innovation and product development at Aegler and Wilsdorf. In particular, this chapter presents an analysis of the patents filed by these two companies, which highlights the variety of innovations made. This shows that, although research into the water resistance of watch cases is important, work is also being carried out on other subjects and designs. The conclusion of this analysis is that Wilsdorf is looking to develop an original and new product but does not yet know which one will be successful in the UK market. He is uncertain but is creating many designs. This goes against the general understanding that Wilsdorf was a genius who invented the Oyster as a revolutionary product.

The second part of the chapter discusses the internalisation of various activities related to the tangible design of watches (especially case and dial) by Montres Rolex in Geneva. The purchase of patents from suppliers, the takeover of small manufacturers of parts, and the general development of the company during the 1920s enabled Wilsdorf to take control over the aesthetic of his products. This strengthened the division of work with the Aegler manufacturer and led him to focus on consumers and marketing.

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