List of figures

Figures

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Chapters

0.1a Juan Pantoja de la Cruz, Portait of Queen Elisabeth of Valois (After Anguissola, Sofonisba), c. 1605. Photograph 2024 © Lebrecht Music & Arts / Alamy stock photos, courtesy of Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid. 3
0.1b Red velvet gown, c. 1549 (detail). Photograph 2022 © Scala, Florence, by permission of the Ministry of Culture – Regional Directorate of Tuscany Museums – Florence. 3
0.1c Alessandro Allori, Portrait of Maria de’ Medici, 1555–60 (detail). Photograph 2024 © Heritage Image Partnership Ltd / Alamy stock photo, courtesy of Kunsthistorisches Museum. Vienna. 3
0.2 Vincenzo Campi, Fruitseller, 1580s. Courtesy of Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan. 4
0.3 Giovanni Battista Moroni, The Tailor (Il tagliapanni), 1565–70. © The National Gallery, London. 6
0.4 Matthäus Schwarz, ‘Book of Clothes’, fol. 113r, 1538. © The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum, Brunswick. 7
0.5 Matthäus Schwarz, ‘Book of clothes’, fol. 80r, 1526. © The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum, Brunswick. 8
0.6 Inventory of the Danish tailor Peter Folchersen, 1650, fol. 213r. Photograph © Anne-Kristine Sindvald-Larsen, courtesy of Rigsarkivet, Copenhagen. 9
0.7 Reconstruction of a seventeenth century male artisan’s doublet. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’ project and London School of Historical Dress. Photograph: Sonja Mantere. 11
0.8 Two replications of an extant seventeenth century silk stocking. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Lena Kingelin. 12
0.9a Dye experiment, Aalto University, Espoo, September 2020. Photograph © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 13
0.9b Opera nuova nella quale troverai molti bellissimi secreti, A Instantia di maestro Giovanni da Lucca, 1540? Wellcome Institute, London. Photograph © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 14
1.1 Samples of calamancoes and striped and plain worsted stuffs, Norwich or Spitalfields, London, 1720. © National Archives. 32
1.2 Charles Beale, Susan Gill, c. 1680. © The Trustees of the British Museum, London. 33
1.3 John Riley, Bridget Holmes, 1686 (detail). Photograph 2022 © Scala, Florence, courtesy of the Royal Collection, London. 34
1.4 Paul Sandby, Black Heart Cherries, c. 1759. Courtesy of the Yale Centre for British Art New Haven. 42
1.5 ‘A bunch of 4 ribbons narrow – Yellow, Blue, Green, & Pink,’ 1743. © Coram. London Metropolitan Archives. 44
1.6 Weaver’s draft for a linen damask diaper, from the pattern book of Thomas Jackson, jobbing weaver, Kirkleatham area, Yorkshire, c. 1756. © Courtesy of the Cooper Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York. 48
2.1 Alessandro Allori, Annunciation (detail), 1603. Photograph 2024 © Artgen/Alamy Stock Photo, courtesy of Galleria dell’Accademia, Florence. 66
2.2 Giuseppe Maria Mitelli, Gioco delle donne, e sue facende (Game of Wives, and Their Chores), 1654–1718. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 68
2.3 Gaetano Gherardo Zompini, Le arti che vanno per via nella città di Venezia, Venezia, 1785, c. 28. © Bibliothèque nationale de France (Paris). 71
3.1a Hat, 1590–1670. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 82
3.1b Reconstruction of a felted hat, Sophie Pitman, School of Historical Dress, London, 2014. Photograph © Sophie Pitman. 82
3.2a Stamped wool velvet, sixteenth–seventeenth century, possibly Italian. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 85
3.2b Stamping mockado using a heated four-petalled flower stamp. Jordan Colls & Jenny Tiramani. © The School of Historical Dress, London, for the ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’ project. Photograph: Jenny Tiramani. 86
3.3a Damask of silk and metal thread, sixteenth century, Italy. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 87
3.3b Block printed linen with crushed mica, c. 1550–99, possibly French. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 87
3.4a Detail of silk and metal thread wound buttons on doublet, c. 1645. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 88
3.4b Pewter buttons (detail), cast with pattern that imitates wrapped thread patterns, on jerkin, c. 1555–65. © Museum of London. 88
3.5 Copper lace border, c. 1700. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 89
4.1 Illustration from Cesare Vecellio, ‘Ortolane’ in Habiti antichi, et moderni di tutto il mondo (Appresso i Sessa: Venice, 1598). Courtesy of the Yale University Library, New Haven. 136
4.2 Studio of Agnolo Bronzino, Eleonora di Toledo, c. 1562–72. Wallace Collection, London, UK © Wallace Collection, London, UK / Bridgeman Images. 138
4.3 Jacopo Zucchi, The Coral Fishers, 1585. Photograph 2022. © Scala, Florence, courtesy of Galleria Borghese, Rome. 139
4.4 Giacomo Franco, Untitled engraving from Habiti delle donne venetiane intagliate in rame nuovamente (Venice, c. 1591–1610). © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 145
5.1 Woodcut book-illustration of a pedlar from Jost Amman, Panoplia omnium illiberalium mechanicarum … (Book of Trades), published by Sigmund Feierabend, Frankfurt am Main, 1568. © The Trustees of the British Museum, London. 153
5.2 Cast copper-alloy finger ring with gilding, England, c. 1450–1700, found in Merton, Oxfordshire, England. Courtesy of the British Museum’s Portable Antiquities Scheme. 158
5.3 Embossed bronze hat ornament depicting a scene from the tale of Pyramus and Thisbe, sixteenth century. © The Trustees of the British Museum, London. 160
5.4 Copper-alloy signet ring, sixteenth–seventeenth century, found in Whitelackington, Somerset. © The Trustees of the British Museum, London. 163
6.1 Giovan Battista Moroni, Portrait of a Gentleman with Armour, 1554–58. Photograph 2024 © Ian Dagnall Computing / Alamy Stock Photos, courtesy of the National Gallery, London. 171
6.2 Arms and armour recorded in an inventory of a Florentine innkeeper, 1571. Photograph © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’, courtesy of Archivio di stato, Florence / the Ministero della Cultura. Photograph: Stefania Montemezzo. 177
6.3 Arms and armour recorded in artisan inventories in Florence, Siena and Venice, 1550–1650. 178
6.4 Example of a dagger and scabbard with silver embellishments. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 178
6.5 An aperture for submitting supplications in Florence. Photograph © Victoria Bartels. 180
6.6 Giovanni Stradano’s supplication to wear offensive and defensive arms. Photograph © Victoria Bartels, courtesy of the Archivio di Stato, Florence / Ministero della Cultura. 181
6.7 Copy of Giovanni Stradano’s arms license issued in 1557. Photograph © Victoria Bartels, courtesy of the Archivio di Stato, Florence / Ministero della Cultura. 182
7.1 Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, Bologna. Matricula societatis draperiorum civitatis Bononiae, ms. 641, fol. 1r, No. 93, 1411. Photograph 2024 © Prisma archivio / Alamy Stock Photos, courtesy of Museo Civico Medievale di Bologna. 213
7.2 Domenico Ghirlandaio, Announcement of Death to St Fina (detail), 1475. Photograph 2024 © Rita Guglielmi / Alamy Stock Photos, Chapel of Santa Fina, Collegiata, San Gimignano. 217
7.3 The colours of artisans’ garments in Florence, Siena and Venice, 1550–1650. 218
7.4 Vincenzo Campi, The Kitchen, 1580s. Photograph 2024 © Album / Alamy Stock Photos, courtesy of Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan. 219
7.5 Artisans’ garments materials in Florence, Siena and Venice, 1550–1650. 220
8.1 Title page of the inventory of Birgitta Falck, 22 June 1698. © Tallinn City Archives. 229
8.2 Piece of silk brocade, textile sample (c. 1600–99). © Courtesy of the Tallinn City Museum. Photograph: Meeli Küttim. 234
8.3 Nicolaus Willebrandt, burgher women of Tallinn (1634), from Stammbuch Adam Olearius. Landesmuseum Schleswig-Holstein, Schloss Gottorf, 2006/128, p. 425. © Courtesy of Landesmuseum Schleswig-Holstein, Schloss Gottorf. 237
8.4 Ribbon made of brown taffeta (c. 1600–1700). © Courtesy of the Tallinn City Museum. Photograph: Ervin Sestverk. 239
8.5 Silver tankard, workshop of goldsmith Stanislaus Schultze in Tallinn (c. 1640–60). © Courtesy of the Tallinn City Museum. Photograph: Meeli Küttim. 241
9.1 Giuseppe Maria Mitelli, Ortolana, etching from Di Bologna l’arti per via d’Annibale Carracci (Rome: Jacomo Rossi, 1660). © Courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. 248
9.2 Contadine di terre conconvicine a Venetia, woodcut from Cesare Vecellio De gli habiti antichi et moderni di diverse parti del mondo (Venice: Giovanni Bernardo Sessa, 1598). © Courtesy of the Wellcome Collection, London. 253
9.3 Citelle contadine di Toscana, woodcut from Cesare Vecellio, De gli habiti antichi et moderni di diverse parti del mondo (Venice: Giovanni Bernardo Sessa, 1598). © Courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. 254
9.4 Guido Reni, Country Dance, 1601–2. © Courtesy Borghese Gallery/ph. Mauro Coen. 256
9.5 Recreation of an Italian gathered linen apron or grembiule. Photograph © Jordan Mitchell-King. 259
9.6 Red silk embroidery on linen of a motif taken from Matteo Pagano, Trionfo di virtu: libro novo (Venice, 1563). Photograph © Elizabeth Currie. 260
10.1 Govert Camphuysen, Town Inn, 1664–65. Courtesy of Malmoe Art Museum. 266
10.2 Turners working in a workshop. Illustration on a guild chest from the turner’s guild of Copenhagen, c. 1658. Courtesy of the National Museum of Denmark, Copenhagen. 268
10.3 A seventeenth-century leather doublet worn by the Dutch Huguenot Hugo Grotius in 1621. Public domain. Courtesy of Museum Rotterdam. 269
10.4 A shoemaker’s workshop, 1583. Detail from a stained-glass window, probably donated to the Odense shoemaker’s guild by the master shoemaker Jesper Pedersen. Courtesy of the Museum Odense. 270
10.5 Wolfgang Heimbach, Portrait of Jacob Jensen Nordmand, 1654. © Courtesy of the Royal Danish Collection, Rosenborg Castle, Copenhagen. 275

Experiments in focus

I.1 Fine furs lining of lynx. Paolo Veronese, Portrait of Countess Livia da Porto Thiene, and Her Daughter Deidamia, 1552. Photograph © Incamerastock / Alamy Stock Photos, courtesy of the Walters Art Museum, Baltimore. 102
I.2 Paula Hohti adds quicklime to the water. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 104
I.3 Sheep and rabbit fur treated with the solution after beating. Few spots with dried pink solution have been left for comparison. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 104
I.4 Sophie Pitman and James Evans examine the formation of galena crystals in the hair shafts using a microscope. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 105
II.1 Pair of seventeenth-century hand-knitted silk stockings. © Courtesy of the Turku Cathedral Museum. Photograph: Jussi Virkkumaa. 108
II.2 SEM microscopic image of the Bombyx mori silk fibres. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Krista Vajanto. 111
II.3 Volunteer knitters studying the technical details of an extant seventeenth-century silk stocking. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 112
II.4a Bombyx mori silkworms at the co-operative Nido di seta, Calabria, Italy © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 113
II.4b Silk cocoons being processed, Nido di seta, Calabria, Italy. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 113
II.5 Reconstruction of seventeenth-century knitted stockings in progress, in linen, wool and silk. Aalto University, Helsinki, 2020. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Piia Lempiäinen. 115
II.6a Reconstruction of an extant hand-knitted silk stocking. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Paula Hohti. 116
II.6b Fustic-dyed reconstruction of a seventeenth century hand-knitted silk stocking. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Liisa Kylmänen. 116
III.1 Reconstruction of the waterseller’s black stamped mockado doublet. Mounted with sleeves. Reconstructing Everyday Fashion Exhibition, Aalto University, September 2021. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 121
III.2 Description of the black stamped mockado doublet, inventory of Francesco Ristori, Florence, 1631. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’, courtesy of Archivio di stato, Florence. Photograph: Stefania Montemezzo. 122
III.3 Jacopo del Conte, Il Facchino, originally located on Via del Corso, now on Via Lata in Rome (since 1872), c. 1580. Photograph: Sophie Pitman. 123
III.4 Hand-woven samples of mockado, fustian, hemp and linen linings and loop manipulated braids. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Jenny Tiramani. 124
III.5 Mockado fabric and braids hanging after being dyed, 2021. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Karl Robinson. 126
III.6 Claire Thornton cuts out drafted doublet pieces from the loom width of mockado, 2021. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: School of Historical Dress. 127
III.7 Square and bar strapwork pattern, created by impressing a hot metal stamp into the pile of the mockado, 2021. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: School of Historical Dress. 128
IV.1 The outfit of reconstructed doublet worn over a shirt with hat, sword belt, hose, stockings, garters and shoes. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Ana de Matos. 191
IV.2a Front view of the fitting for the hemp inter-lining. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: School of Historical Dress. 193
IV.2b Back view of the fitting for the hemp inter-lining. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: School of Historical Dress. 194
IV.3 Front view of the second fitting in mockado. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: School of Historical Dress. 195
V.1 Doublet pattern pieces on the right with all patterns laid over an avatar body on the left. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Maarit Kalmakurki. 198
V.2 The complex layers of doublet collar visualised via animation. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph Maarit Kalmakurki. 199
V.3 Final digital reconstruction of a sleeveless, seventeenth-century male doublet. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph Maarit Kalmakurki. 200
VI.1 Imitation amber made from turpentine, 2020. Aalto University, Espoo. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 204
VI.2 Imitation pearls made from crushed snail shells (top) and covered with gold and silver leaf (bottom), 2020. Aalto University, Espoo. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 205
VI.3 Imitation pearls seen at a distance, 2020. Aalto University, Espoo. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Piia Lempiäinen. 206
VII.1 A piece of stained linen treated with lemon. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Piia Lempiäinen. 282
VII.2 Chanterelle mushrooms in water. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 283
VII.3 Results of a sixteenth-century Danish chanterelle stain-remover recipe. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Anne-Kristine Sindvald Larsen. 283
VII.4 Ingredients for a sixteenth-century Italian cleaning and stain-removal recipe. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 284
VII.5 A reconstructed perfumed linen bag. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Piia Lempiäinen. 285
VIII.1 Dye experiments for scarlet and kermes red imitations using madder and brazilwood. Recipe from the sixteenth-century dye manual Plichto by Gioanventura Rossetti. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 290
VIII.2 Bright yellow dyed with weld, based on a standardised historical dye recipe. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 291
VIII.3 A range of naturally dyed silk fabrics based on historical recipes, Reconstructing Everyday Fashion Exhibition, Aalto University, September 2021. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. Photograph: Sonja Mantere. 292
VIII.4 A sheet from a sample book showing bright pink silk samples dyed with safflower, using a standardised historical recipe. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 293
IX.1a Three reconstructed bobbin-lace edgings (metal lace, polychrome lace and Parasole pattern). Photograph: E. Kanagy-Loux. 296
IX.1b Handkerchief with four reconstructed bobbin-lace edgings. © ‘Refashioning the Renaissance’. 297
IX.2 Polychrome bobbin-lace reconstruction in progress. Photograph: E. Kanagy-Loux. 300
IX.3 Fior d’ogni virtu per le nobili et honeste matrone by Isabella Catanea Parasole, 1610. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 301
IX.4 Handkerchief. Linen and silk, bobbin-lace. Italian, seventeenth century, 45.1 cm by 45.1 cm. © Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photograph: E. Kanagy-Loux. 302
IX.5 Reconstruction of Genoese-style bobbin-lace handkerchief edging in progress. Photograph: E. Kanagy-Loux. 304
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Refashioning the Renaissance

Everyday dress in Europe, 1500–1650

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