The issue of ethnicity in France, and how ethnicities are represented there visually, remains one of the most important and polemical aspects of French post-colonial politics and society. This is the first book to analyse how a range of different ethnicities have been represented across contemporary French visual culture. Via a wide series of case studies – from the worldwide hit film Amélie to France’s popular TV series Plus belle la vie – it probes how ethnicities have been represented across different media, including film, photography, television and the visual arts. Four chapters examine distinct areas of particular importance: national identity, people of Algerian heritage, Jewishness and France’s second city Marseille.
Archives and museums
Italy
State Archives of Florence (Archivio di Stato di Firenze, ASF)
Magistrato dei Pupilli, 2649–2720, 1550–1652.
Pratica Segreta, 176, 1638–1642.
Mediceo del Principato, 229; 3254; 5080; 6113.
Otto di Guardia e Balia del Principato, 2228–2247.
State Archives of Siena (Archivio di Stato di Siena, ASS)
Curia del Placito, 262–286, 1586–1651.
Balia, 830, Libro dei Bandi, 1576.
Regolatori, 767, Bandi, 1594.
State Archives of Turin (Archivio di Stato di Torino, AST)
Consolato di Commercio, Atti del Consolato in materia di arti e mestieri, 37, ‘Regia opera delle povere figlie raminghe’, 24 March 1783, fol. 87r.
Materie economiche, Arti e Manifatture, 9, 22, 23 December 1755.
State Archives of Venice (Archivio di Stato di Venezia, ASV)
Cancelleria inferiore, Miscellanea, 38–45, 1550–1630.
Giudici di Petizion, Inventari, 337–363, 1581–1650.
Giudice dell Esaminador, Inventari 1–2, 1601–1649.
United Kingdom
Cambridgeshire Archives
P68/12/32–7: St Mary Ely, parish workhouse, spinning accounts, 1736–39.
Handbill for Nicholas Forster, weaver, Alnwick, Northumberland, 1800.
Cumbria Archive Service (Kendal)
WD/TE/11/16: Browne of Troutbeck Mss., Account book of an Ambleside shopkeeper, 1701–9.
Denbighshire Record Office
PD/39/1/81: Pattern book of William Jones and William Jones junior, jobbing weavers, Holt, 1775–82.
Essex Record Office
Calendars of Essex Assize Files in the Public Record Office (typescript), vol. 4, 1660–1685, and vol. 5, 1684–1714.
Calendars of Essex Sessions Rolls (typescript), vols 1–18, 1536–1610, and vols 22–5, 1654–99.
Kent Archives
L/M/4/1: Returns of men liable for service in the militia, made by each parish or ‘borough’, Wingham subdivision, 1764.
Lambeth Palace Archives
Letter from John Knyveton to the Earl of Shrewsbury, 6 July 1574, Shrewsbury Papers MS.697.
Lancashire Archives
DP 385: Account book of Richard Latham of Scarisbrick, 1723–1767.
WRW 1687: Archdeaconry of Richmond, Probate Records, inventory of Christopher Hewit/Hewet, Forton, chapman, 1687.
London Metropolitan archives
Acts of the Court of Common Council, COL/CC/01/01/29/01.
North Yorkshire County Record Office
Z.371: The weaver’s guide, linen designs of Ralph Watson of Aiskew, late eighteenth century.
Oxfordshire History Centre
QSR: Oxfordshire Quarter Sessions rolls, 1700–79.
The National Archives
ASSI 2: Assizes, Oxford Circuit, Crown Minute Books, 1714–79.
ASSI 5: Assizes, Oxford Circuit, Indictment Files, 1714–79.
University of Leeds, Brotherton Library Special Collections
Yorkshire Archaeological Society, MS 2022: John Brearley’s Memorandum Book for 1772–73.
West Yorkshire Archive Service Bradford
33D80/7: Shop book of Stephen Hudson of Fewston parish, Yorkshire, 1751–59.
Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre
927/1: John Jeffries and John Usher, Cloth Making Book, 1721–26.
1720/744: Personal and household account book of Hester Soame, 1753–62.
Worcestershire Archive and Archaeology Service
110 BA1: Worcestershire Quarter Sessions Rolls, 1700–79.
United States
Cooper Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York
1958–30–1: Weaver’s thesis book, England, 17th–18th century.
Huntington Library, San Marino, CA
HM 31192: William Smedley’s executors, account book of farm receipts and disbursments, Derbyshire, 1741–52.
Lewis Walpole Library, Farmington, CT
Mss Vol. 212: Account book of Reverend Miles Tarn, Rector of Dean, Cumberland, 1719–97.
France
National Archives, Paris
F12/677A: Lettre de l’inspecteur des manufactures à Rouen sur le mérite comparitif de la filature de la laine au rouet ou à la quenouille, 1762.
F12/677A: Mémoire sur le commerce et les manufactures de la Provence, 1781.
F12/1341: Projet d’Etablissement de filature de Lins, Chanvres et Cottons dans les Villages qui avoisinent la Ville de Troyes, 1770.
Denmark
National Archive in Copenhagen (Rigsarkivet, RA)
Helsingør Byfoged, Skifteprotol: 1583–1592, 1592–1598, 1599–1603, 1610–1612, 1612–1619, 1621–1625, 1625–1627, 1635–1639, 1639–1644, 1648–1650.
Helsingør Skomagerlav, Lavsbog: 1623–1802.
Estonia
National Archives in Tallinn
Archive EAA
Inventory 1 Schwedischer Generalgouverneur von Estland.
No. 482 Eingelaufene Schreiben in Verwaltungs- und Gerichtsangelegenheiten (Suppliken), 1688.
No. 517 Eingelaufene Schreiben in Verwaltungs- und Gerichtsangelegenheiten (Suppliken), 1691.
Tallinn City Archives (TLA)
Collection 190 Revaler St. Kanuti Gilde
Inventory 1
No. 2 Resolutione/n/ von Heerme/istern/ und Könige Lit. A, 1471–1767.
No. 14 Einband Nr. 5, 1631–99.
Collection 191 Revaler Kaufmanns- oder Grosse Gilde
Inventory 1
No. 19 Armen-Ordnung, Rewidierte Ordnung des allgemeinen Gottes-Kastens. Kasten-Ordnungen, Kleider-Ordnungen, 1609–90.
Collection 230 Revaler Magistrat
Inventory 1
No. Aa Protokoll des Niedergerichts/Niedergerichts-Protokoll, 1600–03.
No. Bs7/I Kleider-, Hochzeits-, Kindtauf-, Begräbnis u.s.w. Ordnungen, 1497–1738.
No. Bt Inventarien, 1500–1700.
Collection 31 Die Gemeinde der Revaler St. Nikolai-Kirche
Inventory 1
No. 13 St. Nicolai in Reval Kirchenbuch: (Getaufte, Getraute, Verstorbene), 1652–97.
Journals and newspapers
Bonhams Magazine
Ipswich Journal
Cambridge Chronicle
Derby Mercury
Journals of the House of Commons
Norfolk Chronicle
Primary and secondary sources
A note on suf or camlet’, Bulletin of the American Institute for Iranian Art and Archaeology, 5, 3 (1938), 254–56.
, ‘Adamson, Glenn, Giorgio Riello and Sarah Teasley (eds), Global Design History (London: Routledge, 2011).
Advice to the Maidens of LONDON: To Forsake Their Fantastical TOP-KNOTS; Since they are become so Common with Billings-gate Women, and the Wenches that cryes Kitchin-Stuff: Together with the Wanton Misses of the Town (London. 1685–88), Magdalene College, Pepys Ballads 4.365, EBBA 22029.
The Renaissance in material culture: Material mimesis as force and evidence of globalization’, in Tamar Hodos (ed.), The Routledge Handbook of Archaeology and Globalization (London: Routledge, 2017), 669–86.
, ‘When is a portrait not a portrait? Belle donne on maiolica and the Renaissance praise of local beauties’, in Nicholas Mannand and Luke Syson (eds), The Image of the Individual: Portraits in the Renaissance (London: British Museum, 1998), 138–53.
and , ‘Housework’, in Marta Ajmar-Wollheim and (eds), At Home in Renaissance Italy (London: V&A Publications, 2006), 152–63.
, ‘Jacob Weisdorf, ‘Was there an “industrious revolution” before the industrial revolution? An empirical exercise for England, c. 1300–1830’, Economic History Review, 64 (2011), 715–29.
, andMainz: Peter Jordanim, 1532). Transl. Sidney M. Edelstein in ‘The Allerley Matkel (1532): Facsimile Text, Translation, and Critical Study of the Earliest Printed Book on Spot Removing and Dyeing’, Technology and Culture, 5, 3 (1964), 317.
(Clothing and early modern Venetian society’, Continuity and Change, 15, 3 (2000), 367–90.
, ‘Consuming problems: Worldly goods in Renaissance Venice’, in Michelle O’Malley and Evelyn Welch (eds), The Material Renaissance (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007), 11–46.
, ‘“Contrary to the truth and also the semblance of reality”? Entering a Venetian “lying-in” chamber (1605)’, Renaissance Studies, 20, 5 (2006), 629–39.
, ‘L’abito come articolo di scambio nella società dell’età moderna: alcune implicazioni’, in Anna Giulia Cavagna and Grazietta Butazzi (eds), Le trame della moda (Rome: Bulzoni Editore, 1994), 109–24.
, ‘Reconstructing the second-hand clothes trade in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century Venice’, Costume, 33, 1 (1999), 46–56.
, ‘The market in second-hand clothes and furnishings in Venice, c. 1500–c. 1650’, 1996, https://cadmus.eui.eu/handle/1814/5818.
, ‘Sartorial Practices and Social Order in Eighteenth-Century Sweden: Fashioning Difference (New York and London: Routledge, 2021).
,Craft guild legislation and woollen production: The Florentine Arte della Lana in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries’, in Karel Davids and Bert De Munck (eds), Innovation and Creativity in Late Medieval and Early Modern European Cities (Farnham: Ashgate, 2014).
, ‘Per filo e per segno: l’arte della lana a Firenze nel Cinquecento (Florence: Florence University Press, 2020).
,Between cobbles, bunions, shoe last and fashion: An appropriation and adaption analysis of footwear from the Middle Ages, Renaissance and Absolutism from archaeological excavations in Copenhagen’ (PhD dissertation submitted for University of Copenhagen, 2017).
, ‘Foreign seductions: Sumptuary laws, consumption and national identity in early modern Sweden’, in Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen et al. (eds), Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and Trends in Textile and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World (Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2014), 15–29.
, ‘A mirror of oneself: Possessions and the manifestation of status among a local Swedish elite, 1650–1770’, Cultural and Social History, 3, 1 (2006), 21–44.
, ‘Skrädderi för kungligt bruk: tillverkning av kläder vid det Svenska hovet, ca 1600 1635 (Uppsala: Uppsala Universitet, 2009).
,Spinning in Lusatia’, Annals of Agriculture, 10 (1788), 312–15.
, ‘Trattato dei colori nelle arme, nelle livree, e nelle divise (Venice: Domenico Nicolino, 1565).
,Il tesoro delle gioie: trattato marauiglioso in torno alle vertuti e proprieta più rare di tutte le gioie, perle, gemme (Venice: Appresso Gio. Battista Ciotti, 1602).
,Patterns of Fashion 4. The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women (London: Macmillan, 2008).
, and ,An Introduction to English Economic History and Theory, Part 2 (London: Longmans, 1893).
,At a meeting of the master weavers, living in Hexham, and parts adjacent, it was unanimously agreed, that the prices for weaving of plain cloth, sheeting, ticking, huckaback, etc. be as follows (Hexham, 1792).
Bejewelled: The male body and adornment in early modern England’ (PhD thesis, Queen Mary, University of London, 2012).
, ‘Bejewelled: Men and Jewellery in Tudor and Jacobean England (London: British Museum Press, 2017).
,Redressing the balance: Dress accessories of the non-elites in early modern England’, in Toby F. Martin and Rosie Weetch (eds), Dress and Society: Contributions from Archaeology (Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2017), 151–69.
, ‘Opgravingen in Amsterdam: 20 Jaar Stadskernonderzoek (Haarlem: Fibula-Van Dishoeck, 1977).
,Le XII pietre pretiose … (Rome: Giovanni Martinelli, 1587).
,Medieval Suffolk: An Economic and Social History, 1200–1500 (Woodbridge: Boydell, 2007).
,1762 Northumberland Militia Ballot List Database (Cambridge: Cambridge Group for the History of Population and Social Structure, 2013).
, , and ,Dress & Material Culture,’ in A Companion to Late Medieval and Early Modern Augsburg, edited by B. Ann Tlusty and Mark Haberlein (Leiden: Brill, 2020).
and , ‘Masculinity, Arms and Armour, and the Culture of Warfare in Sixteenth-Century Florence’ (PhD Thesis, University of Cambridge, 2020).
, ‘The Fashion System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1990).
,Botteghe e pigioni nella Firenze del ’500: Un censimento industriale e commerciale all’epoca del granducato mediceo’, Archivio Storico Italiano, 95, 3/363 (1937), 3–28.
, ‘Inventaires après-décès et ventes de meubles: apports à une histoire de la vie économique et quotidienne (XIVe–XIXe siècle): actes du séminaire tenu dans le cadre du 9ème Congrès international d’histoire économique de Berne (1986) (Louvain: Academia, 1988).
, and ,Are these girls really so neat? On kitchen scenes and method’, in David Freedberg and Jan de Vries (eds), Art in History, History in Art: Studies in Seventeenth Century Dutch Art (Santa Monica: Getty Center for the History of Art and the Humanities, 1991), 139–74.
, ‘A Cultural History of Climate (Cambridge: Polity Press, 2010).
,Branding before the brand: Marks, imitations and counterfeits in pre-modern Europe’, Business History, 60, 8 (2018), 1127–46.
, ‘Calze e maglie: moda e innovazione nell’industria della maglieria del Rinascimento a oggi (Mantua: Tre Lune Edizioni, 2005).
,Civiltà della moda (Bologna: Il mulino, 2008).
,Clothing and social inequality in early modern Europe: Introductory remarks’, Continuity and Change, 15, 3 (2000), 259–65.
, ‘Fashion and innovation: The origins of the Italian hosiery industry in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries’, Textile History, 27, 2 (1996), 132–47.
, ‘Mobilità sociale e opportunità di mercato alle origini del cambiamento’, in Eugenia Paulicelli (ed.), Moda e mode dal Medioevo al Rinascimento (Rome: Moltemi editore, 2006), 39–40.
, ‘The civilization of fashion: At the origins of a western social institution’, Journal of Social History, 43, 2 (2009), 261–83.
, ‘Was fashion a European invention?’, Journal of Global History, 3, 3 (2008), 419–43.
, ‘How to Do It: Guides to Good Living for Renaissance Italians (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1999).
,Women’s Work and Rights in Early Modern Urban Europe (Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2018).
,Shaping Femininity: Foundation Garments, the Body and Women in Early Modern England (London: Bloomsbury, 2021).
,“Take measure of your wide and flaunting garments”: The farthingale, gender and the consumption of space in Elizabethan and Jacobean England’, Renaissance Studies, 33, 5 (2018), 712–37.
, ‘The case of the “French Vardinggale”: A methodological approach to reconstructing and understanding ephemeral garments’, Fashion Theory, 23, 3 (2019), 363–99.
, ‘Imitation in the decorative arts of the eighteenth century’, Journal of Design History, 4, 1 (1991), 1–13.
, ‘From imitation to invention: Creating commodities in eighteenth-century Britain’, Economic History Review, 55, 1 (2002), 1–30.
, ‘Luxury and Pleasure in Eighteenth-Century Britain (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007).
,New commodities, luxuries and their consumers in eighteenth-century England’, in Maxine Berg and Helen Clifford (eds), Consumers and Luxury: Consumer Culture in Europe, 1650–1850 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999).
, ‘Luxury in the Eighteenth Century: Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2002).
and ,Jacob Jensen Nordmand’, Museum. Tidsskrift for Historie og Geografi, Første Halvbind (1893), 245–84.
, and , ‘Fashion, tradition, and innovation in button manufacturing in early modern Italy’, Technology and Culture, 55, 3 (2014), 675–710.
, ‘Perle di vetro e gioie false: produzioni e cultura del gioiello non prezioso nell’Italia moderna (Venice: Marsilio, 2017).
,Usefulness, ornamental function and novelty: Debates on quality in button and buckle manufacturing in northern Italy (eighteenth to nineteenth centuries)’, in Bert De Munck and Dries Lyna (eds), Concepts of Value in European Material Culture, 1500–1900 (London: Routledge, 2015).
, ‘Artigiani a Genova nei secoli XII–XIII (Florence: Florence University Press, 2015).
,The Pirotechnia of Vannoccio Biringuccio: The Classic Sixteenth-Century Treatise on Metals and Metallurgy, ed. and trans. Cyril Stanley Smith and Martha Teach Gnudi (New York: Dover Publications, 1990).
,Armi difensive dal Medioevo all’Eta Moderna (Florence: Centro Di, 1980).
,Armi bianche italiane (Milan: Bramante Editrice, 1975).
, and ,Coloring topaz, crystal and moonstone: Factitious gems and the imitation of art and nature, 300–1500’, in Marco Beretta and Maria Conforti (eds), Fakes!? Hoaxes, Counterfeits and Deception in Early Modern Science (Sagamore Beach, MA: Science History Publications, 2014), 108–29.
, ‘The Matter of Mimesis: Studies of Mimesis and Materials in Nature, Art and Science (Leiden: Brill, 2023).
and ,Boulboullé, Jenny and Sven Dupré (eds), Burgundian Black: Reworking Early Modern Colour Technologies (Santa Barbara: EMC Imprint, 2022), https://burgundianblack.tome.press, accessed 3 June 2023.
Criminal Justice and Crime in Late Renaissance Florence, 1537–1609 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992).
,Een paar zijden kousen’, in Birgit van den Hoven and Iris Toussaint (eds), Wereldvondsten uit een Hollands schip: Basisrapportage BZN17/Palmhoutwrak (Leiden: Provincie Noord-Holland, 2019), 258–69.
, ‘17th-Century Men’s Dress Patterns 1600–1630 (London: Thames and Hudson, 2016).
, , , and ,Industrialisation and Everyday Life, trans. S. Hanbury Tenison (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1979).
,Digitally printed textiles: Their potential use in costume collections and living-history museums’, Waac Newsletter, 22, 2 (May 2002).
‘Cultures, identities, histories: Fashioning a cultural approach to dress’, Fashion Theory, 2, 4 (1998), 301–13.
, ‘Condecenti e netti … Beauty, dress and gender in Italian Renaissance art’, in Francis Ames Lewis and Mary Rogers (eds), Concepts of Beauty in Renaissance Art (Aldershot: Ashgate, 1998), 44–51.
, ‘Tallinn: Kleine Geschichte der Stadt (Cologne: Böhlau, 2011).
and ,Variations in English women’s dress in the eighteenth century’, Folk Life, 9 (1971), 5–28.
, ‘Emergence of a Bureaucracy: The Florentine Patricians, 1530–1790 (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2014).
,By the King: A Proclamation Prohibiting the Wearing, Buying, or Selling of Counterfeit Iewels (London: John Bill, 1636), STC 9062.
Warfare and economy in Renaissance Italy, 1350–1450’, Journal of Interdisciplinary History, 39, 2 (2008), 167–209.
, ‘Calendar of State Papers, Domestic Series, of the Reign of Charles I: Addenda – March 1625 to January 1649, ed. William Douglas Hamilton and Sophia Crawford Lomas (London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1897) at British History Online, www.british-history.ac.uk/cal-state-papers/domestic/chas1/addenda/1625-49, accessed 7 January, 2024.
Digital 3D analysis of historical textile fragment’, Proceedings for Huddersfield University Conference: Transition- Re-thinking Textiles and Surfaces, Yorkshire, 2 November 2014.
, et al., ‘Abito, genere, cittadinanza nella Toscana Moderna (Secoli XVI–XVII)’, Quaderni Storici, 37, 110 (2002), 477–503.
, ‘Diritti e legami. Madri, figli, Stato in Toscana (XVI–XVIII secolo)’, Quaderni Storici, 29, 86 (2) (1994), 487–510.
, ‘Revaluing dress in history paintings for Quattrocento Florence’, in Gabriel Neher and Rupert Shepherd (eds), Revaluing Renaissance Art (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2000), 137–43.
, ‘Old Women and Art in the Early Modern Italian Domestic Interior (Abingdon: Routledge, 2016).
,Cantini, Lorenzo (ed.), Legislazione toscana raccolta ed illustrata dal Dottor Lorenzo Cantini, vols 4–5 (Florence: Stampa Albizziniana da Santa Maria in Campo, 1800–3).
The Noble Art of the Sword: Fashion and Fencing in Renaissance Europe, 1520–1630 (London: The Wallace Collection, 2012).
and ,Beaten children and women’s work in early modern Italy’, Past & Present, 222, 1 (2014), 95–128.
, ‘Dentro la bottega: culture del lavoro in una città d’età moderna (Venice: Marsilio, 2008).
,Fashion, capitalism and ribbon-making in early modern Europe’, in Thomas Max Safley (ed.), Labor before the Industrial Revolution: Work, Technology and Their Ecologies in an Age of Early Capitalism (London: Routledge, 2018), 48–69.
, ‘Fra sistema a domicilio e manifattura accentrata : l’istituto degli orfani Nazzareni di Padova nella prima metà del Seicento’, Mediterranea Ricerche Storiche, 48 (2020), 123–42.
, ‘Nastri, nastrini, cordelle: l’industria serica nel padovano, secc. XVII.–XIX (Padua: CLEUP, 2004).
,Textiles manufacturing, product innovations and transfers of technology in Padua and Venice between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries’, in Karel Davids and Bert de Munck (eds), Innovation and Creativity in Late Medieval and Early Modern European Cities (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2014), 131–60.
, ‘Una compagnia di cordelle di seta nella seconda metà del Seicento’, OS. Opificio della Storia, 2, 2 (2021), 8–21.
, ‘The De Subtilitate of Girolamo Cardano, ed. and trans. J. M. Forrester, 2 vols (Tempe,: Arizona Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies, 2013).
,Natural Dyes: Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science (London: Archetype Publications, 2007).
,Sull’economia Toscana del Cinquecento e del Seicento’, Archivio Storico Italiano, 120, 1/433 (1962), 32–46.
, ‘The artisan’s casa’, in Marta Ajmar-Wollheim and Flora Dennis (eds), At Home in Renaissance Italy (London: V&A Publications, 2006), 66–75.
, ‘Artisans of the Body in Early Modern Italy: Identities, Families and Masculinities (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007).
,A world of small objects: Probate inventories, pawns, and domestic life in early modern Venice’, Renaissance and Reformation, 35, 3 (2012), 39–61.
, ‘Quadri e commercio a Venezia durante il Seicento: uno studio sul mercato dell’arte / Isabella Cecchini (Venice: Marsilio, 2000).
,Literature and Artistic Practice in Sixteenth-Century Italy (Leiden: Brill, 2017).
,Sarti toscani nel Seicento: attività e clientela’, in Anna G. Cavagna and Grazietta Butazzi (eds), Le trame della moda (Roma: Bulzoni Editore, 1995), 421–35.
, ‘La loi du lignage. Notes sur le système successoral florentin (XIVe/XVe–XVIIe siècles)’, Clio, 7 (1998), 51–72.
, ‘Goldsmiths (London: British Museum Press, 1992).
,Why early modern English clothiers started using Spanish wool’, Textile History, 52 (2021), 122–43.
, ‘The “Draperies légères” of Lille, Arras, Tournai, Valenciennes: new materials for new markets?’, in Marc Boone and Walter Prevenier (eds), La Draperie Ancienne des Pays-Bas: débouchés et stratégies de survie (14e–16e siècles) (Leuven: Garant, 1993), 151–66.
, ‘An Economic History of Modern Britain; The Early Railway Age, 1820–1850 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1930).
,The Roots of Rural Capitalism: Western Massachusetts, 1780–1860 (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1992).
,The consumer revolution: Turning point in human history, or statistical artifact?’, working paper, Munich Personal RePEc Archive, Paper No. 25467 (September 2010).
, ‘Uncut: The materiality of textiles and the politics of sustainment in fashionable clothing’, in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, 9, 1 (2012), Textile Society of America.
, ‘Concepts of invention, identity and imitation in the London and provincial metal-working trades, 1750–1800’, Journal of Design History, 12, 3 (1999), 241–55.
, ‘Cockburn, James (ed.), Calendar of Assize Records: Essex Indictments, Elizabeth I (London: HMSO, 1978–79).
Cockburn, James (ed.), Calendar of Assize Records: Kent Indictments, Charles II (London: HMSO, 1995; Woodbridge and London: Boydell, 1997).
Paradoxes of Inequality in Renaissance Italy (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2021).
, ,The Laboring Classes in Renaissance Florence (New York: Academic Press, 1980).
An innovation and its diffusion: “The new draperies”’, Economic History Review, 22 (1969), 417–29.
, ‘Proto-industrialization: A concept too many’, Economic History Review, 36 (1983), 435–48.
, ‘Woollen velvets and their terminology: Panne, peluche, moquette, tripp and velours d’Utrecht’, in Anna Jolly (ed.), Furnishing Textiles: Studies on Seventeenth- and Eighteenth-Century Interior Decoration (Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 2009), 211–22.
‘Citizen Portrait: Portrait Painting and the Urban Elite of Tudor and Jacobean England and Wales (New Haven: Yale University Press for the Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art, 2012).
,The tyranny of fashion: The case of the felt-hatting trade in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, Textile History, 22, 2 (1991), 153–78.
, ‘Corporation of London book of fines, 1517–1628, London Metropolitan Archives, COL/CHD/CM/10/001.
I secreti (Venice: Giacomo Cornetti, 1584).
,Coryats Crudities … (London: William Stansby, 1611).
,Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities, 1550–1820 (Wolverhampton: University of Wolverhampton, 2007), at British History Online, www.british-history.ac.uk.
and ,Perceptions of Retailing in Early Modern England (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007).
, and ,The Growth of English Industry and Commerce in Modern Times: The Mercantile System (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1903).
,Struttura, crisi e trasformazione di un sistema produttivo urbano: le corporazioni auroseriche milanesi (1570–1720) (Milan: Cooperativa universitaria editrice, 1996).
,Currie, Elizabeth (ed.), A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance (London: Bloomsbury, 2017).
Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2016).
,Fashion networks: Consumer demand and the clothing trade in Florence from the mid-sixteenth to early seventeenth centuries’, Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies, 39, 3 (2009), 483–509.
, ‘Clothing and a Florentine style, 1550–1620’, Renaissance Studies, 23, 1 (2009), 33–52.
, ‘Diversity and design in the Florentine tailoring trade, 1560–1620’, in Michelle O’Malley and Evelyn Welch (eds), The Material Renaissance (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007), 154–73.
, ‘Health hazards: Clothing’s impact on the body in Italy and England, 1550–1650’, Bulletin of the John Rylands Library, 95, 2 (2019), 115–33.
, ‘Ink, print, repeat: A hands-on approach to early printed textiles’, Victoria and Albert Museum blog (October 2019), https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/ink-print-repeat-a-hands-on-approach-to-early-printed-textiles.
, ‘To see the unseen: Computer graphics in visualisation and reconstruction of archaeological and historical textiles’, in Nobuhiko Mukai (ed.), Computer Graphics (London: InTech, Open, 2012), 213–29.
, ‘Med kant av guld och silver: en studie av knypplade bårder uddar av metall 1550–1640 (Uppsala: Uppsala Universitet, 2010).
,Darlington, Ida (ed.), London Consistory Court Wills, 1492–1547 (London: London Record Society, 1967).
Abiti antichi e moderni dei Veneziani (Vicenza: Neri Pozza, 2001).
,The embodied turn: Making and remaking dress as an academic practice’, Fashion Theory, 23, 3 (2019), 329–62.
, ‘Davis, Karel and Bert de Munck (eds), Innovation and Creativity in Late Medieval and Early Modern European Cities (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2014), 131–60.
Fiction in the Archives: Pardon Tales and Their Tellers in Sixteenth-Century France (Cambridge: Polity, 1987).
,The Renaissance goes up in smoke’, in John Jeffries Martin (ed.), The Renaissance World (New York: Routledge, 2007).
, ‘Lapidary, or, The History of Pretious Stones …, trans. Thomas Nicols (Cambridge: Thomas Buck, 1652).
,Artisans, products and gifts: Rethinking the history of material culture in early modern Europe’, Past & Present, 224, 1 (2014), 39–74.
, ‘Between purchasing power and the world of goods: Understanding the household economy in early modern Europe’, in John Brewer and Roy Porter (eds), Consumption and the World of Goods in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries (London: Routledge, 1993), 85–132.
, ‘Rethinking protoindustry: Human capital and the rise of modern industry’, in Kristine Bruland, Anne Gerritsen, Pat Hudson and Giorgio Riello (eds), Reinventing the Economic History of Industrialisation (Montreal and Kingston: McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2020), 107–26.
, ‘The Industrial Revolution and the Industrious Revolution’, Journal of Economic History, 54 (1994), 249–70.
, ‘The Industrious Revolution: Consumer Behaviour and the Household Economy, 1650 to the Present (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2008).
,Production and Consumption in English Households, 1600–1750 (London: Routledge, 2004).
, , and ,A Brief Deduction of the Original, Progress, and Immense Greatness of the British Woollen Manufacture (London, 1727).
,A Plan of the English Commerce (London: 1728).
,Håndværkets kulturhistorie: håndværket i fremgang, perioden 1550–1700 (Copenhagen: Håndværkerrådets Forlag, 1983).
, and ,The Guls Horne-booke (London: R.S., 1609).
,Galateo, trans. Konrad Eisenbichler and Kenneth R. Bartlett (Toronto: Centre for Reformation and Renaissance Studies, 1986).
,A Most Excellent and Vertuous Ballad of the Patient Grissell (London, ?1624), Magdalene College, Pepys Ballads 1.34–35, EBBA 20160.
,Le manifatture tra Medioevo ed Età Moderna’, in Giovanni L. Fontana (ed.), L’industria vicentina dal Medioevo a oggi (Padua: CLEUP, 2004), II, 21–126.
, ‘Textile Terms and Definitions (Manchester: Textile Institute, 2002).
and ,L’Encyclopédie: Recueil de planches sur les sciences, les arts libéraux et les arts méchaniques, avec leur explication – Arts de l’habillement (Paris, 1757).
and ,Diplomentarium Helsingoranum : en samling af aktstykker til byen Helsingørs historie (Copenhagen: Trykt i Bianco Lunos bogtrykkeri ved F.S. Muhle, 1861).
The fabric of life: Time and textiles in an eighteenth-century plebeian home’, Home Cultures, 11 (2014), 353–74.
, ‘Libri tre ne i quali si tratta delle diverse sorti delle gemme che produce la Natura … (Venice: Gio. Battista, Marchiot Sessa, e Fratelli, 1565).
,L’art de la passementerie et sa contribution à l’histoire de la mode et de la décoration (Paris: Chêne, 1992).
, and ,Introduction: Did the poor have art?’, in Rembrandt Duits (ed.), The Art of the Poor: The Aesthetic Material Culture of the Lower Classes in Europe, 1300–1600 (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2020), 1–22.
, ‘Lille and the Dutch Revolt: Urban Stability in an Era of Revolution, 1500–1582 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1991).
,The art of glassmaking and the nature of stones: The role of imitation in Anselm De Boodt’s classification of stones’, in Isabella Augart, Maurice Saß and (eds), Steinformen: Materialität, Qualität, Imitation (Berlin: De Gruyter, 2019), 207–20.
, ‘Dupré, Sven, Anna Harris and Julia Kursell (eds), Reconstruction, Replication and Re-enactment in the Humanities and Social Sciences (Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press, 2020).
Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century Lace, Book 1: Gold and Silver Edgings (London: Cleveden Press, 2012).
,Science and the Secrets of Nature: Books of Secrets in Medieval and Early Modern Culture (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994).
,Lace in Fashion (Dublin: Gorse Publications, 1991).
,The Allerley Matkel (1532): Facsimile text, translation, and critical study of the earliest printed book on spot removing and dyeing’, Technology and Culture, 5, 3 (1964), 297–321.
, ‘O, those jewels! The pride and glory of this Kingdom!’, in Olga Dmitrieva and Tessa Murdoch (eds), Treasures of the Royal Court: Tudors, Stuarts and the Russian Tsars (London: V&A Publishing, 2013), 144–57.
, ‘The Civilizing Process (Cambridge, MA: Blackwell, 1994, originally printed 1939).
,L’Évolution des techniques du filage et du tissage du moyen âge à la révolution industrielle (Paris: Mouton, 1968).
,The late medieval crisis as an “integration crisis”’, in Maarten Prak (ed.), Early Modern Capitalism: Economic and Social Change in Europe 1400–1800 (London: Routledge, 2001), 25–50.
, ‘Ertl, Thomas and Barbara Karl (eds), Inventories of Textiles – Textiles in Inventories: Studies on Late Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture (Göttingen: V&R Unipress, 2017).
Leslie, Charles Robert (1794–1859), literary genre painter and author’, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2004).
, ‘The Patriarch’s Wife: Literary Evidence and the History of the Family (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1987).
,Fur: A Sensitive History (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2020).
,The production and marketing of populuxe goods in eighteenth-century Paris’, in John Brewer and Roy Porter (eds), Consumption and the World of Goods (London: Routledge, 1993), 228–48.
, ‘Center and Periphery’, Journal of Modern History, 67, supplement, The Origins of the State in Italy, 1300–1600 (1995), S74–S96.
, ‘Considerazioni su giustizia stato e società nel Ducato di Toscana del Cinquecento’, in Christine Smith and Salvatore I. Camporeale (eds), Florence and Venice: Comparisons and Relations. Acts of Two Conferences at Villa I Tatti in 1976–1977, vol. 2 (Florence: Villa I Tatti, 1980), 135–68.
, ‘The manufacture and movement of goods’, in John Jeffries Martin (ed.), The Renaissance World (New York: Routledge, 2007), 87–100.
, ‘Acquedotti e fontane del Rinascimento in Toscana. Acqua, architettura e città al tempo di Cosimo I dei Medici (Florence: Olschki, 2016).
Del compendio de i secreti rationali: libri 5 (Venice: Vincenzo Valgrisi, 1564).
,Some Proposals for the Imployment of the Poor (London: 1681).
,The Renaissance beard: Masculinity in early modern England’, Renaissance Quarterly, 54, 1 (2001), 155–87.
, ‘Queen Anna’s New World of Words, Or, Dictionarie of the Italian and English Tongues (London: Edward Blount and William Barret, 1611).
,London’s Lost Jewels: The Cheapside Hoard (London: Philip Wilson Publishers, 2013).
,Seven Households: Life in Cheshire and Lancashire, 1582–1774 (Northwich: Arley Hall Press, 2002).
,Fowler, Joseph T. (ed.), ‘The Account-Book of William Wray’, The Antiquary, 32 (1896).
Woollen luxury cloths in late medieval Italy’, in Bart Lambert and Katherine A. Wilson (eds), Europe’s Rich Fabric: The Consumption, Commercialisation, and Production of Luxury Textiles in Italy, the Low Countries and Neighbouring Territories (Fourteenth–Sixteenth Centuries) (Farnham: Ashgate, 2016), 181–204.
, ‘Habiti delle donne venetiane intagliate in rame nuovamente (Venice, c. 1610).
,The Materiality of Color: The Production, Circulation, and Application of Dyes and Pigments 1400–1800 (New York: Routledge, 2016).
, , and ,A sixteenth century English merchant in Ankara?’, Anatolian Studies, 22 (1972), 241–7.
, ‘Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002).
,The Florentine “rigattieri”: Second hand clothing dealers and the circulation of goods in the Renaissance’, in Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark (eds), Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion (Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2005), pp. 13–28.
, ‘Two Treatises Written Against the Papists (London: Thomas Vautrollier, 1577).
,Benvenuto Cellini: Sexuality, Masculinity, and Artistic Identity in Renaissance Italy (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2003).
,Men at work. Wages and industriousness in southern Sweden, 1500–1850’, Scandinavian Economic History Review, 68 (2020), 112–28.
and , ‘La piazza universale di tutte le professioni del mondo (Venice: Seravalle, 1605).
,“Cool and tasty waters”: Managing Naples’s water supply, c. 1500–c. 1750’, Water History, 11 (2019), 125–51.
, ‘George, Edwin and Stella George (eds), Bristol Probate Inventories, Part 1: 1542–1650 (Bristol: Bristol Record Society, 2002).
Giannuzzi, Chiara Piccolo (ed.), Fonti per il barocco leccese (Galatina: Congedo Editore, 1995).
Reval 1621 bis 1645: von der Eroberung Livlands durch Gustav Adolf bis zum Frieden von Brömsebro (Bonn: Kulturstiftung der deutschen Vertriebenen, 1991).
,‘Distinguishing men’s trades’: Occupational Sources and Debates for Pre-Census England (Cheltenham: Historical Geography Research Group, 1990).
,The social shape of the market for domestic linens in early modern England’, working paper for the conference ‘Clothing and Consumption in England and America, 1600–1800’, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1992.
, ‘The Building of Renaissance Florence (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1982).
,The Economy of Renaissance Florence (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2009).
,The Economy of Renaissance Italy: The preconditions for luxury consumption’, I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance, 2 (1987), 15–39.
, ‘The empire of things: Consumer demand in Renaissance Italy’, in William Kent, Patricia Simons and John D. Eade (eds), Patronage, Art and Society in Renaissance Italy (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1987).
, ‘The hand of the maker: The importance of understanding textiles from the “inside out”’, in Silk Roads, Other Roads (Proceedings of the 8th Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Northampton, MA, September 2002), 189–98.
, ‘Arms and Armor: Essays from the Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, 1920–1964 (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1986).
,Laugshusets Pryd: Malede Vinduer fra Odense, 1563–1641’, Fynske Minder (1998), 77–96.
, ‘Dei veri ritratti degl’habiti di tutte le parti del mondo (Rome: Bartolomeo Grassi, 1585).
,Unpacking foreign ingenuity: The German conquest of artful objects with “Indian” provenance’, in Richard Oosterhoff, José Ramón Marcaida and Alexander Marr (eds), Ingenuity in the Making: Matter and Technique in Early Modern Europe (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2021), 203–18.
, ‘Devon Household Accounts, 1627–59, Part 2 (Exeter: Devon and Cornwall Record Society, 1996).
,Inventories and the analysis of wealth and consumption patterns in St. Mary’s County, Maryland, 1658–1777’, Historical Methods, 13, 2 (1980), 81–104.
and , ‘Gregory, Sharon and Sally Anne Hickson (eds), Inganno – the Art of Deception: Imitation, Reception, and Deceit in Early Modern Art (Farnham: Ashgate, 2012).
Schooling in Renaissance Italy: Literacy and Learning 1300–1600 (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1989).
,The farming and domestic economy of a Lancashire smallholder: Richard Latham and the agricultural revolution, 1724–67’, in Richard W. Hoyle (ed.), The Farmer in England, 1650–1980 (Farnham: Ashgate, 2013), 101–34.
, ‘Social emulation, product imitation and technical innovation’, Paper presented at the Center for Science and Innovation Studies, University of California, Davis, 2 April 2014, www.academia.edu/7833070.
, ‘Enseignes: Renaissance Hat Jewels (Florence: Studio per edizioni scelte, 1996).
,Haberdashery for use in dress, 1550–1800’ (PhD thesis, University of Wolverhampton, 2007).
, ‘Survivors of the Armada (London: Constable, 1966).
,The Description of England: The Classic Contemporary Account of Tudor Social Life, ed. Georges Edelen (Washington, DC, and New York: Folger Shakespeare Library and Dover, 1994).
,The rise of protection and the English linen trade, 1690–1790’, in Negley B. Harte and Kenneth G. Ponting (eds), Textile History and Economic History: Essays in Honour of Julia de Lacy Mann (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1973), 74–112.
, ‘Men in Black (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1996).
,Nassaburgh militia lists, 1762’, in Edmund King (ed.), A Northamptonshire Miscellany (Northampton: Northamptonshire Record Society, 1983), 109–46.
and , ‘Household and Farm Inventories in Oxfordshire, 1550–1590 (London: HMSO, 1966).
,A shadow of a former self: Analysis of an early seventeenth-century doublet from Abingdon’, in Tara Hamling and Catherine Richardson (eds), Everyday Objects: Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture and Its Meanings (Abingdon: Routledge, 2016), 107–18.
, ‘Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII’s England (Abingdon: Routledge, 2016).
,Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400–1500 (London: Bell & Hyman, 1981).
,‘Hertfordshire Militia Ballot Lists’, PDF files on compact disk (Watford: Hertfordshire Family History Society, 2008).
The Play Called the Four PP, ed. John S. Farmer (London: The Tudor Facsimile Texts, 1908).
,Florence: The Biography of a City (London: Penguin, 2004).
,The Whitcombe green plaquettes’, The Burlington Magazine for Connosieurs, 30, 168 (1917), 103–10.
, ‘The Social Topography of a Rural Community: Scenes of Labouring Life in Seventeenth Century England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2023).
,By sale, by gift: Aspects of the resale and bequest of goods in late-sixteenth-century Venice’, Journal of Design History, 15, 4 (2002), 245–62.
, ‘Fairs of Elizabethan England’, Economic Geography, 18, 4 (1942), 389–400.
, ‘The Colourful Past: Origins, Chemistry and Identification of Natural Dyestuffs (London: Archetype Publications, 2014).
,Artisans, Objects and Everyday Life in Renaissance Italy: The Material Culture of the Middling Class (Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press, 2020).
,Artisans, pawn-broking and the circulation of material goods in sixteenth-century Siena’, in M. Ascheri, G. Mazzini, and F. Nevola (eds), Siena nel Rinascimento: l’ultimo secolo della Repubblica, II: Arte, architettura, cultura, Acts of the Conference held in Siena, 28–30 September 2003 and 16–18 September 2004 (Siena: Accademia Senese degli Intronati, 2008), 271–81.
, ‘Cheap magnificence? Imitation and low-cost luxuries in Renaissance Italy’, in Catherine Kovesi (ed.), Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy (Turnhout: Brepols, 2018), 277–97.
, ‘“Conspicuous” consumption and popular consumers: Material culture and social status in sixteenth-century Siena’, Renaissance Studies, 24, 5 (2010), 654–70.
, ‘Dress, dissemination, and innovation: Artisan “fashions” in sixteenth- and early seventeenth-century Italy’, in Evelyn Welch (ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017), 143–65.
, ‘Innovations and imitations of colour: Wearing and making colour in early modern Italy’, in Maria Hayward, Giorgio Riello and Ulinka Rublack (eds), A Revolution in Colour: Natural Dyes and Dress in Europe, c. 1400–1800 (London: Bloomsbury, forthcoming 2024).
, ‘Knitting history through reconstruction: The making and meaning of early modern stockings’, in Sophie Pitman and Paula Hohti (eds), Remaking Dress and Textile History: Applying Reconstruction Methods to Early Modern Textiles and Clothing, Special Issue, Textile History (forthcoming 2024).
‘Material culture, shopkeepers and artisans in sixteenth-century Siena’ (PhD thesis, University of Sussex, 2006).
, ‘“Monstrous” ruffs and elegant trimmings: Lace and lacemaking in early modern Italy’, in Emma Cormack and Michele Majer (eds), Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen (New York: Yale University Press, Bard Graduate Center, 2023), 69–87.
, ‘Power, black clothing, and the chromatic politics of textiles in Renaissance Europe’, in Jenny Boulboullé and Sven Dupré (eds), Burgundian Black: Reworking Early Modern Colour Technologies (Santa Barbara: EMC Imprint, 2022), https://doi.org/10.55239/bb001.
, ‘The art of artisan fashions: Moroni’s tailor and the changing culture of clothing in sixteenth-century Italy’, in Rembrandt Duits (ed.), The Art of the Poor: The Aesthetic Material Culture of the Lower Classes in Europe 1300–1600 (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2020), 109–16.
, ‘The innkeeper’s goods: The use and acquisition of household property in sixteenth century Siena’, in M. O’Malley and E. Welch (eds), The Material Renaissance, 1450–1600 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007), 242–59.
, ‘Hanseatic textile production in 15th century long distance trade’, in Carsten Jahnke and Angela L. Huang (eds), Textiles and the Medieval Economy: Production, Trade and Consumption of Textiles, 8th to 16th Centuries (Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2015), 204–15.
, ‘Sumptuary law and social relations in Renaissance Italy’, in John Bossy (ed.), Disputes and Settlements: Law and Human Relations in the West (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983), 69–99.
, ‘Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1996).
,Standards of living in north Warwickshire in the seventeenth century’, Warwickshire History, 4, 6 (1980–1), 203–15.
, ‘Klima og hungersnød i middelalderen’, Historisk Tidsskrift, 102, 2 (2002), 265–80.
, ‘Women’s fashions in transition: Ottoman borderlands and the Anglo-Ottoman exchange of costumes’, Journal of World History, 22, 2 (2011), 243–72.
, ‘The Fur Trade in Canada: An Introduction to Canadian Economic History (Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1999).
,Copier et contrefaire des textiles au temps de la Renaissance’, in Pascale Mounier and Colette Nativel (eds), Copier et contrefaire à la Renaissance: Faux et usage de faux (Paris: Honoré Champion, 2014), 293–306.
, ‘Labelling with numbers? Weavers, merchants and the valuation of linen in seventeenth-century Münster’, in Bert De Munck and Dries Lyna (eds), Concepts of Value in European Material Culture, 1500–1900 (London: Routledge, 2015), 171–206.
, ‘The missing link: the distribution revolution of the 15th century’, in Carsten Jahnke and Angela L. Huang (eds), Textiles and the Medieval Economy: Production, Trade and Consumption of Textiles, 8th to 16th Centuries (Oxford: Oxbow, 2015), 230–52.
, ‘British and American yarn count systems: An historical analysis’, Business History Review, 45 (1971), 336–68.
, ‘Ottoman Dress and Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2019).
,Ti kongers tøj: tre århundreders kongedragter på rosenborg slot, 1596–1863 (Aarhus: Aarhus University Press, 2020).
,Sleeves, purses, spindles: Fashioning women in Cesare Vecellio’s costume books’, in Susan Shifrin (ed.), Re-framing Representations of Women: Figuring, Fashioning, Portraiting and Telling in the ‘Picturing’ Women Project (Abingdon: Routledge, 2016), 99–114.
, ‘Jones, Ann Rosalind and Peter Stallybrass (eds), Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000).
Poetaster; or The Arraignment (London: M. Lownes, 1602) in The Cambridge Edition of the Works of Ben Jonson Online, https://universitypublishingonline.org/cambridge/benjonson.
,Kala, Tiina and Toomas Tamla (eds), Tallinna ajalugu II 1561–1710 (Tallinn: Tallinna Linnaarhiiv, 2019).
Kalm’s Account of His Visit to England on His Way to America in 1748, trans. Joseph Lucas (London: Macmillan, 1892).
,Tallinn – meistrite linn (Tallinn: Tallinna Kultuuriväärtuste Amet, 1995).
,Textile Manufactures in Early Modern England (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1985).
,Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers’ Drafting Systems in the United States (Washington, DC: Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology, 1979).
,“The beads with which we pray are made from it”: Devotional ambers in early modern Italy’, in Wietse de Boer and Christine Göttler (eds), Religion and the Senses in Early Modern Europe (Leiden: Brill, 2013), 153–76.
, ‘Kirby, Jo, Maartin Van Bommel and A. Verhecken, (eds), Natural Colorants for Dyeing and Lake Pigments: Practical Recipes and Their Historical Sources (London: Archetype Publications, 2014).
The male occupational structure of Northumberland, 1762–1871: A preliminary report’, working paper, Cambridge Group for the History of Population and Social Structure, 2005.
, ‘Women, Family, and Ritual in Renaissance Italy (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1985).
,Ruder med personlighed: Een mode i Renæssancen’, in Ole Høiris and Jens Vellev (eds), Renæssancens verden: tænkning, kulturliv, dagligliv og efterliv (Aarhus: Aarhus University Press, 2006), 401–17.
, ‘Russia’s Foreign Trade and Economic Expansion in the Seventeenth Century: Windows on the World (Leiden: Brill, 2005).
,Kovesi, Catherine (ed.), Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy (Turnhout: Brepols, 2018).
Practical problems in the enforcement of Italian sumptuary law, 1200–1500’, in Trevor Dean and Kate J. P. Lowe (eds), Crime, Society, and the Law in Renaissance Italy (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994), 99–120
, ‘Sumptuary Law in Italy, 1200–1500 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 2002).
,Rites of passage: Art objects to celebrate betrothal, marriage, and the family’, in Andrea Bayer (ed.), Art and Love in Renaissance Italy (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2008), 60–7.
, ‘Agrarian Origins of American Capitalism (Charlotte: Virginia University Press, 1992).
,The Book of the Pearl: The History, Art, Science, and Industry of the Queen of Gems (New York: The Century Co., 1908).
and ,A General View of the Rural Economy of England, 1538–1840 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1990).
,Computer reconstruction of 19th century trousers’, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 29, 4 (2017), 594–606.
et al., ‘Vad kostade det? Priser och löner från medeltid till våra dagar (Lund: Historiska media, 2015).
,Relazioni di Marsilio Landriani sui progressi delle manifatture in Europa alla fine del Settecento, ed. M. Pessina (Milan: Il Polifilo, 1981).
,Diarium sive calendarium ecclesiasticum, politicum et oeconomicum perpetuum. Det er en evigvarende eircke, politisk oc huuszholdings caiender (Copenhagen: Peter Hake på Boghandler Peder Andersens Bekostning, 1648).
,Laursen L. (ed.), Kancelliets brevbøger vedrørende Danmarks indre forhold, 1571–1575, 1580–1583, 1584–1588 (Copenhagen: C. A. Reitzels Forlag, 1898; 1903; 1906).
“Ye shall have it cleane”: Textile cleaning techniques in Renaissance Europe’, in Robin Netherton and Gale T. Owen-Crocker (eds), Medieval Clothing and Textiles 2 (Woodbridge: Boydell & Brewer, 2006), 101–20.
, ‘Bound up with meaning: The politics and memory of ribbon wearing in Restoration England and Scotland’, Journal of British Studies, 56, 1 (2017), 27–50.
, ‘Italian Renaissance plaquettes in context’ (PhD thesis, University of London, 2003).
, ‘Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade Before the Factory, 1660–1800 (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1997).
,Global Trade and the Transformation of Consumer Cultures: The Material World Remade, c. 1500–1820 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2018).
,East & west: Textiles and fashion in early modern Europe’, Journal of Social History, 41, 4 (2008), 887–916.
and , ‘Lace: A History (London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1983).
,Lace in the early modern period, c. 1500–1780’, in David Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), vol. 1, 585–96.
, ‘Le Pompe, 1559: Patterns for Venetian Bobbin Lace (Bedfordshire: Ruth Bean Publishers, 1983).
,The History of the Woollen and Worsted Industries (London: A. and C. Black, 1921).
,Note sulla legislazione suntuaria nell’Italia centro-settentrionale’, in Anna Giulia Cavagna and Grazietta Butazzi (eds), Le trame della moda (Rome: Bulzoni, 1995), 31–52.
, ‘Trattato dell’arte de la pittura di Gio. Paolo Lomazzo … diviso in sette libri, 3 vols (Rome: Presso S. Del-Monte, 1844).
,Lord Mayor’s Ordinance, 28 October 1576 (London: John Day). Short Title Catalogue 16707.
Il libro della bella donna (Venice: Plinio Pietrasanta, 1554).
,Donner du travail aux pauvres: les logiques laborieuses dans les institutions charitables florentines aux XVIIe et XVIIIe siècle’, Mediterranea Ricerche Storiche, 48 (2020), 97–122.
, ‘Imitation, copie, contrefaçon, faux: Définitions et pratiques sous l’Ancien Régime’, Entreprises et Histoire, 78, 1 (2015), 13–26.
, ‘A puzzling relationship: Consumptions and incomes in early modern Europe’, Histoire & Mesure, 27, 2 (2012), 197–222.
and , ‘Il lusso dei contadini : consumi e industrie nelle campagne toscane del Sei e Settecento (Bologna: Il Mulino, 1990).
,An early modern mystery: A pilot study of knitting, napping and capping’, Archaeological Textile Review, 58 (2016), 57–74.
, ‘The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1640 to 1880 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1971).
,Country Contentments, or The English Huswife (London, 1623).
,Martin, Janet B. (ed.), The Account Book of Clement Taylor of Finsthwaite, 1712–1753 (Liverpool: Record Society of Lancashire and Cheshire, 1997).
Textile manufactures in Norwich and Norfolk, 1550–1622’ (PhD thesis, University of Cambridge, 1991).
, ‘The rise of the new draperies in Norwich, 1550–1622’. in Negley B. Harte (ed.), The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997), 245–74.
, ‘Review of Yeohlee: Energetics: Clothes and Enclosures, Ades Gallery, Berlin, Germany, 1998’, Fashion Theory, 2, 3 (1998), 287–93.
, ‘Produzioni agricole per le manifatture medievali : la robbia e il lino di Cortona all’inizio del Quattrocento’, Rivista di Storia dell’Agricoltura, 34, 1 (1994), 62.
, ‘I rapporti tra il Granducato di Toscana e il Principato di Transilvania (1540–1699)’ (PhD thesis, Ca’ Foscari Venezia, 2013).
, ‘Credit and credibility: Used goods and social relations in sixteenth-century Florence’, in Michelle O’Malley and Evelyn Welch (eds), The Material Renaissance (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007), 225–41.
, ‘To have and have not: The disposal of household furnishing in Florence’, Renaissance Studies, 20, 5 (2006), 701–16.
, ‘Women, objects, and exchange in early modern Florence’, Early Modern Women, 3 (2008), 245–51.
, ‘Treasure of the Atocha: Sixteen Dramatic Years in Search of the Historic Wreck (London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1986).
, III,Brilliant Bodies: Fashioning Courtly Men in Early Renaissance Italy (University Park: Penn State University Press, 2022).
,Brilliant bodies: Material culture and the adornment of men in north Italy’s Quattrocento Courts’, I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance, 16, 1–2 (2013), 445–90.
, ‘Making the Renaissance Man: Masculinity in the Courts of Renaissance Italy (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2023).
,Material fictions of luxury in Sforza Milan’, in Catherine Kovesi (ed.), Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy (Turnhout: Brepols, 2018), 239–76.
, ‘Porcelain for the poor: The material culture of tea and coffee consumption in eighteenth-century Amsterdam’, in Paula Findlen (ed.), Early Modern Things: Objects and Their Histories (New York: Routledge, 2013), 316–42.
, ‘The Birth of a Consumer Society: The Commercialization of Eighteenth-Century England (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1982).
, and ,Fashion, embodiment and the “making turn”’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 23, 3 (May 2019), 325–8.
and , ‘Top-knots and lower sorts: Popular print and promiscuous consumption in late seventeenth-century England’, in Michael Hunter (ed.), Printed Images in Early Modern Britain: Essays in Interpretation (Farnham: Ashgate, 2010), 337–57.
and , ‘Medlycott, Mervyn (ed.), Index to Dorset Militia Ballot Lists, 1757 to 1799, vol. 2 (Weymouth: Somerset and Dorset Family History Society, 1999).
Proto-industrialization: The first phase of the industrialization process’, Journal of Economic History, 32 (1972), 241–61.
, ‘The Social Fabric of Fifteenth-Century Florence: Identities and Change in the World of Second-Hand Dealers (New York: Routledge, 2019).
,A diplomacy woven with textiles: Medici–Ottoman relations during the late Renaissance’, Mediterranean Historical Review, 35, 2 (2020), 169–88.
, ‘Cash is good to eat: Self-sufficiency and exchange in the rural economy of the United States’, Radical History Review, 3 (1977), 42–71.
, ‘Embellishing herself with a cloth: The contradictory life of a handkerchief’, in Bella Mirabella (ed.), Ornamentalism: The Art of Renaissance Accessories (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2011), 59–82.
, ‘Mirabella, Bella (ed.), Ornamentalism: The Art of Renaissance Accessories (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2011).
“What d’ye lack ladies? Hoods, ribbands, very fine silk stockings”: The silk trade in restoration London’, in Dagmar Schafer, Giorgio Riello and Luca Molà (eds), Threads of Global Desire: Silk in the Pre-Modern World (Woodbridge: Boydell Press and Pasold Research Fund, 2018), 187–224.
, ‘A luxury industry: The production of Italian silks, 1400–1600’, in Bart Lambert and Kathrine A. Wilson (eds), Europe’s Rich Fabric: The Consumption, Commercialisation, and Production of Luxury Textiles in Italy, the Low Countries and Neighbouring Territories (Fourteenth–Sixteenth Centuries) (Farnham: Ashgate, 2016), 205–34.
, ‘The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000).
,A study in contrasts: Silk consumption in Italy and England during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries’, in Dagmar Schäfer, Giorgio Riello and Luca Molà (eds), Threads of Global Desire: Silk in the Pre-Modern World (Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2018), 149–86.
, ‘Loom widths and selvedges prescribed by Italian silk weaving statutes, 1265–1512: A preliminary investigation’, Bulletin de Liason du Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens, 66 (1988), 35–44.
, ‘Journal de voyage, ed. Fausta Garavini (Paris: Gallimard, 1983).
,The Arms, Armour and Fighting Techniques of a Fifteenth-Century Soldier, trans. Jeffrey L. Forgeng (Woodbridge: Boydell & Brewer, 2018).
,“Popular fashion”: la ricostruzione dei consumi di moda degli artigiani nell’Italia rinascimentale’, Storiografia. Rivista Annuale di Storia, 27, 26 (2023), 145–67.
, ‘Textiles in America, 1650–1870 (New York: W. W. Norton, 1984).
,Ribbon Culture: Charity, Compassion, and Public Awareness (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008).
,An imported stoneware spindlewhorl, with some preliminary comments on stoneware spindlewhorls in England, their dating and origin’, Transactions of the London and Middlesex Archaeological Society, 32 (1981), 124–27.
and , ‘Digital replicas of historical skirts’, The Journal of the Textile Institute, 110, 12 (2019), 1810–26.
, ‘Economie et refuge à Genève au siècle de la réforme: la draperie et la soierie (1540–1630) (Geneva: Champion, 1987).
,Production et innovation en Suisse et dans les états allemands’, in Simoneetta Cavaciocchi (ed.), La seta in Europa, sec. XII–XX: Atti Della ‘Ventiquattrimesa Settimana Di Studi’, 4–9 Maggio 1992, 24 (Florence: Le Monnier, 1993), 141–61.
, ‘Food, Energy and the Creation of Industriousness: Work and Material Culture in Agrarian England, 1550–1780 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2011).
,“Th’ancient Distaff” and “Whirling Spindle”: Measuring the contribution of spinning to household earnings and the national economy of England, 1550–1770’, Economic History Review, 65 (2012), 498–526.
, ‘The Economy of Obligation: The Culture of Credit and Social Relation in Early Modern England (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1998).
,Jewels in Spain, 1500–1800 (Madrid: Ediciones El Viso, 2012).
,Medieval woollens: Textiles, textile technology and industrial organisation, c. 800– 1500’, in David Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), vol. 2, 181–227.
, ‘Medieval woollens: The western European woollen industries and their struggles for international markets, c. 1000–1500’, in David Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), vol. 2, 228–324.
, ‘The anti-red shift – to the “dark side”: Colour changes in Flemish luxury woollens, 1300–1550’, Medieval Clothing and Textiles, MPRA Paper, 3, 1 (2007), 55–98.
, ‘The origins of the English “New Draperies”: The resurrection of an old Flemish industry, 1270–1570’, in Negley Harte (ed.), The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997), 35–127.
, ‘Calligraphy and metamorphosis: Invention and imitation in a sixteenth-century craft’, in Richard Oosterhoff, José Ramón Marcaida and Alexander Marr (eds), Ingenuity in the Making: Matter and Technique in Early Modern Europe (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2021), 79–93.
, ‘From the closet to the wallet: Pawning clothes in Renaissance Italy’, Renaissance and Reformation, 35, 3 (2012), 23–38.
, ‘Gli inganni delle apparenze: disciplina di vesti e ornamenti alla fine del Medioevo (Turin: Scriptorium, 1996).
,Guardaroba medievale: vesti e società dal XIII al XVI secolo (Bologna: Il Mulino, 1999).
,La disciplina delle apparenze’, in Paolo Prodi (ed.), Disciplina dell’anima, disciplina del corpo (Bologna: Il Mulino, 1994), 757–86.
, ‘Le regole del lusso: apparenza e vita quotidiana dal Medioevo all’età moderna (Bologna: Società editrice Il mulino, 2020).
,Noscere ordinem et finem sui status: il valore delle vesti nella società posizionale del tardo Medioevo. Problemi di identità tra Medioevo ed età moderna: seminari e bibliografia’, in Paolo Prodi and Valerio Marchetti (eds), Problemi di identità tra Medioevo ed età moderna: seminari e bibliografia (Bologna: CLUEB, 2001), 105–15.
, ‘Reconciling the privilege of a few with the common good: Sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern Europe’, Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies, 39, 3 (2009), 597–617.
, ‘Una seconda chance per le persone e per le cose: i pegni consegnati ai Monti di Pietà alla fine del Medioevo: casi’, Anuario de Estudios Medievales, 52, 1 (2022), 235–51.
, ‘Opera omnia, ed. Gaetano Volpi and Giovanni Antonio Volpi (Venetiis: Ex Typographia Remondiniana, 1754).
,“Galloon, inkle and points”: Fashionable dress and accessories in rural England, 1552–1665’, in Richard Jones and Christopher Dyer (eds), Farmers, Consumers, Innovators (Hatfield: University of Hertfordshire Press, 2016), 104–23.
, ‘Sweet and Clean? Bodies and Clothes in Early Modern England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2020).
,Knitted wool stockings in the Museum of London: A study of 16th century construction’, Archaeological Textiles Review, 60 (2018), 42–50.
, ‘The stocking knitting industry of later sixteenth-century Norwich’, Textile History, 52 (2021), 144–64.
, ‘O’Malley, Michelle and Evelyn Welch (eds), The Material Renaissance (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2007).
Early modern stockings in museums in the Czech Republic’, Archaeological Textiles Review, 60 (2018), 51–63.
, ‘Consumption, social capital, and the “Industrious Revolution” in early modern Germany’, Journal of Economic History, 70 (2010), 287–325.
, ‘The theories of proto-industrialization’, in Sheilagh C. Ogilvie and Markus Cerman (eds), European Proto-Industrialization: An Introductory Handbook (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996), 1–11.
and , ‘“Fyne worsted whech is almost like silke”: Norwich’s double worsted’, Textile History, 42 (2011), 181–99.
, ‘The economic impact of clothmaking on rural society, 1300–1550’, in Martin Allen and Matthew Davies (eds), Medieval Merchants and Money (London: Institute of Historical Research, 2016), 229–52.
, ‘The English Woollen Industry, c. 1200–c. 1560 (Abingdon: Routledge, 2019).
,Opera nova chiamata Secreti secretorum: in laquale poterai conseguire molti piaceri et utilitade: con molte cose ridiculose stampata novamente (Venice: B. Benalius, 1520).
Opera nuova intitolata dificio di ricette (Venice, 1525).
The Rise of Commercial Empires: England and the Netherlands in the Age of Mercantilism, 1650–1770 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003).
,Moda a Firenze: Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza (Florence: Edizioni Polistampa, 2007).
,Black dyed wool in north-western Europe, 1680–1850: The relationship between historical recipes and the current state of preservation’ (Unpublished PhD thesis, University of Antwerp, 2018).
, ‘Libro quarto de rechami (Toscolano: Paganino, c. 1532).
,When data becomes information: Visualizing archaeological textiles’, in B. D. Frischer, J. W. Crawford and D. Koller (eds), Making History Interactive: Computer Methods and Quantitative Methods in Archaeology, Proceedings of the 37th International Conference of the CAA, Williamsburg, Virginia, United States, March 22–26, 2009 (Oxford: Archaeopress, 2010).
, ‘Costume and control: Sumptuary laws and social order in seventeenth-century Tallinn’ (master’s thesis, Uppsala University, 2014).
, ‘Dress Matters: Clothes and Social Order in Tallinn, 1600–1700 (Uppsala: Studia Historica Upsaliensia, 2020).
,Dentro le case: abitare a Venezia nel Cinquecento (Venice: Gambier&Keller, 2013).
,Medieval and early modern artisan culture’, Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies, 43, 3 (2013), 473–85.
and , ‘The body’, in Elizabeth Currie (ed.), A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2017), 57–73.
, ‘Probate Inventories of French Immigrants in Early Modern London (Farnham: Ashgate, 2014).
,Fashion and Armour in Renaissance Europe: Proud Lookes and Brave Attire (London: V&A Publishing, 2009).
,Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy: From Sprezzatura to Satire (Farnham: Ashgate, 2014).
,Flora danica, det er: dansk urtebog: udi huilcken efter … Christiani IV. … befaling … icke alleeniste urternis historiske beskrifvelse, krafter oc virckninger med ziirligste figurer andragis, men endocsaa lægedomme til alle siugdomme gafnlige, korteligen ocklarligen antegnis, saa at den er baade en urtebog oc lægebog med største flid oc umage elaborerit aff Simone Paulli (Copenhagen: Prentet aff Melchiore Martzan, 1648).
,Iconografia delle cortigiane di Venezia’, in Doretta Davanzo Poli et al., Il gioco dell’amore: Le cortigiane di Venezia dal trecento al settecento (Milan: Berenice Art Books, 1990), 81–94.
, ‘A Tour in Scotland; 1769 (London, 1776).
,The Venetian economy’, in Eric Dursteler (ed.), A Companion to Venetian History, 1400–1797 (Leiden: Brill, 2013), vol. IV, 255–89.
, ‘Craft guilds and technological change: The engine loom in the European silk ribbon industry in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries’, in Stephen Epstein and Maarten Prak (eds), Guilds, Innovation, and the European Economy, 1400–1800 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2008), 172–98.
, ‘Natura Exenterata: Or Nature Unbowelled by the Most Exquisite Anatomies of Her (London: H. Twiford, 1655).
,Black color for dyeing, and the place of textiles in Ms. Fr. 640’, in Pamela H. Smith et al. (eds), Secrets of Craft and Nature in Renaissance France: A Digital Critical Edition and English Translation of BnF Ms. Fr. 640, Making and Knowing Project, 2020, https://edition640.makingandknowing.org, accessed 7 January 2024.
. ‘Codes: Redressing London – sumptuary laws and the control of clothing in the early modern city’, in Peter Goodrich (ed.), A Cultural History of Law in the Early Modern Age (London: Bloomsbury, 2019), 65–86.
, ‘Prodigal years?: Negotiating luxury and fashioning identity in a seventeenth-century account book’, Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption, 3, 1–2 (November 2016), 7–31.
, ‘Reconstructing fashion: The mock-velvet doublet of a seventeenth-century Florentine waterseller’, in Sophie Pitman and Paula Hohti (eds), Remaking Dress and Textile History: Applying Reconstruction Methods to Early Modern Textiles and Clothing, Special Issue, Textile History, forthcoming 2024.
, ‘The making of clothing and the making of London, 1560–1660’ (PhD thesis, University of Cambridge, 2017).
, ‘Pitman, Sophie and Paula Hohti (eds), Remaking Dress History: Applying Reconstruction Methods to Early Modern Textiles and Clothing, Special Issue, Textile History, forthcoming 2024.
General View of the Agriculture of the County of Stafford (London, 1794).
,Natural History: A Selection, trans. John F. Healy (London: Penguin, 1991).
,Benvenuto Cellini, orfèvre, medailleur, sculpteur: recherches sur savie, sur son oeuvre et sur les pièces qui lui sont attribuées (Paris: Plon, 1883).
,The London Weavers’ Company, 1600–1970 (London: Routledge, 2006).
,Archéologie de la fabrique: La diffusion des moulins à soie “alla bolognese” dans les États vénitiens, du XVe au XVIIIe siècle’, Annales: Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 27, 6 (1972), 1475–96.
, ‘Fashion as flexible production: The strategies of the Lyons silk merchants in the eighteenth century’, in Charles Sabel and Jonathan Zeitlin (eds), World of Possibilities: Flexibility and Mass Production in Western Industrialization (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1997), 37–74.
, ‘Standards, trust and civil discourse: Measuring the thickness and quality of silk thread’, History of Technology, 23 (2001), 1–16.
, ‘The clothing accessory choices of Rachel, Countess of Bath, and other mid-seventeenth-century women’, Costume, 54 (2020), 3–29.
, ‘Consumption and the World of Goods (London: Routledge, 1993).
and ,Prak, Maarten and Patrick Wallis (eds), Apprenticeship in Early Modern Europe (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2019).
Prammatica sopra le perle, gioie, drappi, ricami, et altro, per la citta di Pisa e Territorio dello Stato Pisano (Pisa: Per il Tanagli, & il Dote, 1638).
Norwich stuffs, 1600–1700’, in Negley Harte, The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997), 275–88.
, ‘Crisis and Change in the Venetian Economy in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (London: Methuen, 1968).
,Wage-earners and the Venetian economy, 1550–1630’, Economic History Review, 16, 3 (1964), 407–26.
, ‘1600-luvun kuolinpukuja Turun tuomiokirkkomuseossa (Turku: Turun kaupungin Historiallinen Museo, 1955).
,Barokin pukumuoti Suomessa 1620–1720 (Helsinki: Suomen Muinaismuistoyhdistys, 1970).
,Säätyläispuku Suomessa Vanhalla Vaasa-ajalla 1550–1620, with a short summary in English, ‘The costume of the nobility, clergy and burghers in the earlier Vasa period, 1550–1620’, 505–22 (Helsinki: Suomen Muinaismuistoyhdistys, 1956).
,Tutti i colori del nero: moda e cultura del gentiluomo nel Rinascimento (Costabissara Vicenza: A. Colla, 2007).
,Chains of pearls: Gender, property, identity’, in Bella Mirabella (ed.), Ornamentalism: The Art of Renaissance Accessories (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2011), 159–81.
, ‘Europe at Home: Family and Material Culture 1500–1800 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2002).
,Napoli, città della seta: produzione e mercato in età moderna (Rome: Donzelli Editore, 2009).
,Specializzazione produttiva a Napoli nei secoli XVI e XVII’, in Simonetta Cavaciocchi (ed.), La seta in Europa, Sec. XII–XX: Atti Della ‘Ventiquattrimesa Settimana Di Studi’, 4–9 Maggio 1992, 24 (Florence: Le Monnier, 1993), 339–49.
, ‘The English Woollen Industry, 1500–1750 (London: Macmillan, 1982).
,Modeleijon: manligt ode 1500-tal 1600-tal 1700-tal (Stockholm: Livrustkammaren/Atlantis, 2002).
,Industry and Economic Decline in Seventeenth-Century Venice (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1976).
,Open for business: Textile manufacture in Northamptonshire, c.1685–1800’ (PhD thesis, University of Leicester, 2005).
, ‘The Rise of Market Culture: The Textile Trade and French Society, 1750–1900 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1984).
,Reed, Michael (ed.), The Ipswich Probate Inventories, 1583–1631 (Woodbridge: The Boydell Press for the Suffolk Records Society, 1981).
The Gallery of Fashion (London: National Portrait Gallery, 2000).
,Ricami Italiani: antichi e moderni (Florence: Felice Le Monnier, 1927).
,“Things seen and unseen”: The material culture of early modern inventories and their representation of domestic interiors’, in Paula Findlen (ed.), Early Modern Things: Objects and Their Histories, 1500–1800 (New York: Routledge, 2013), 125–50.
, ‘The world of textiles in three spheres: European woollens, Indian cottons and Chinese silks, 1300–1700’, in Marie-Louise Nosch, Zhao Feng and Lotika Varadarajanpp (eds), Global Textile Encounters (Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2014), 93–106.
, ‘The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200–1850 (Oxford: Oxford University Press / Pasold, 2009).
and ,Riello, Giorgio and Peter McNeil (eds), The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives (London: Routledge, 2010).
Riello, Giorgio and Ulinka Rublack (eds), The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c. 1200–1800 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2019).
Riforma, e Prammatica sopra l’uso delle perle, gioie, vestire, et altro per la Città & Contado di Firenze (Florence: Massi e Landi, 1638).
Gems and counterfeited gems in early modern Antwerp: From workshops to collections’, in Michael Bycroft and Sven Dupré (eds), Gems in the Early Modern World (Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2019), 309–42.
, ‘Dragtfortællinger fra voldgraven: Klædedragten i 1600-tallets København, baseret på arkæologiske tekstiler fra Københavns Rådhusplads’ (PhD thesis, University of Copenhagen, 2018).
, ‘Hosekoner og sålede strixstrømper’, Dragtjournalen, 8, 11 (2014), 4–12.
, ‘The Waters of Rome: Aqueducts, Fountains, and the Birth of the Baroque City (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2010).
,Dirty laundry: Caring for clothing in early modern Italy’, Costume, 55, 1 (2021), 3–23.
. ‘The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ‘Ancien Régime’, trans. Jean Birrell (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996).
,Baroque pearls’, Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies, 25, 2 (2000), 68–106.
, ‘A History of Agriculture and Prices in England: 1583–1702 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1887).
,Storia documentata di Venezia, 3rd edition (Venice: Filippi, 1972).
,Clothing, fashion, dress, and costume in Venice (c. 1450–1650)’, in Eric R. Dursteler (ed.), A Companion to Venetian History, 1400–1797 (Leiden: Brill, 2013), 889–928.
, ‘Cultures of clothing in later medieval and early modern Europe’, Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies, 39, 3 (2009), 459–81.
, ‘The Plichto: Instructions in the Art of the Dyers Which Teaches the Dyeing of Woolen Cloths, Linens, Cottons, and Silk by the Great Art as Well as by the Common, trans. of the first edition of 1548 by Sidney M. Edelstein and Hector C. Borghetty (Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 1969).
,Fashion, silk and the worshipful company of weavers’, in Simonetta Cavaciocchi (ed.), La seta in Europa, Sec. XIII–XX: Atti Della ‘Ventiquattrimesa Settimana Di Studi’, 4–9 Maggio 1992, 24 (Florence: Le Monnier, 1993), 471–2.
, ‘Silk in the early modern period, c. 1500–1780’, in David Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), vol. 2, 528–61.
, ‘I vestiti dei contadini alla fine del Cinquecento e l’opera dialettale di Giulio Cesare Croce’, in Jeannine Guérin Dalle Mese (ed.), Il vestito e la sua immagine: Atti del convegno in omaggio a Cesare Vecellio nel quarto centenario della morte (Belluno: Tipografia Piave, 2002).
, ‘Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010).
,Matter in the material Renaissance’, Past & Present, 219 (2013), 41–85.
, ‘Renaissance fashion: The birth of power dressing’, History Today, 61, 1 (2011), www.historytoday.com/archive/renaissance-fashion-birth-power-dressing.
‘Renaissance dress, cultures of making, and the period eye’, Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture, 23, 1 (2016), 6–34.
, ‘Rublack, Ulinka, Maria Hayward and Jenny Tiramani (eds), The First Book of Fashion: The Book of Clothes of Matthaus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2015).
De’ secreti del reuerendo donno Alessio Piemontese (Venice: Antonio de gli Antonii, 1563).
,The Secrets of the Reuerend Maister Alexis of Piemont, Containing Excellent Remedies against Diuerse Diseases, Wounds, and Other Accidents, trans. William Ward (London: Thomas Wright, 1595).
,Fleece grading and wool sorting: The historical perspective’, Textile History, 26 (1995), 3–22.
, ‘Dictionnaire universel du commerce (Copenhagen, 1759).
,Shaping identity through glass in Renaissance Venice’, in Susanna Burghartz et al. (eds), Materialized Identities in Early Modern Culture, 1450–1750 (Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press, 2021), 99–136.
, ‘The Origins of the Consumer Revolution in England: From Brass Pots to Clocks (Abingdon: Routledge, 2020).
,Corpus constitutionum daniæ: forordninger: forordninger, recesser og andre kongelige breve, Danmarks lovgivning vedkommende 1558–1660, vol. 4 (Copenhagen: G. E. C. Gad Nielsen & Lydiche, 1897).
,Les mouvements longs de l’industrie lainière à Venise aux XVIe et XVIIe siècles’, Annales. Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 12, 1 (1957), 29–45.
, ‘A discerning eye: Visual culture and social distinction in early modern Stockholm’, Cultural and Social History, 12, 2 (2015), 179–95.
, ‘Il declino dell’uomo pubblico (Milan: Mondador, 2006).
,I gioielli dei Medici: dal vero e in ritratto (Livorno: Sillabe, 2003).
,The Complete Works of William Shakespeare, Shakespeare Head Press Edition (Ware: Wordsworth Editions, 1999).
,The decline of textile prices in England and British America prior to industrialization’, Economic History Review, 47 (1994), 483–507.
, ‘The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1990).
,Writing to the prince: Supplications, equity and absolutism in sixteenth-century Tuscany’, Past & Present, 215 (2012), 51–83.
, ‘An Early Lace Workbook: Bobbin Lace Techniques Before the Baroque (Sydney: Lace Daisy Press, 2009).
,Artisans and dress in Denmark 1550–1650: A preliminary exploration’, in Rembrandt Duits (ed.), The Art of the Poor: The Aesthetic Material Culture of the Lower Classes in Europe 1300–1600 (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2020), 99–108.
, ‘Clothes, culture and crafts: Dress and fashion among artisans and small shopkeepers in the Danish town of Elsinore, 1550–1650’ (PhD dissertation, Aalto University, Aalto ARTS Books, 2023).
, ‘The Body of the Artisan (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2004).
,Historians in the laboratory: Reconstruction of Renaissance art and technology in the Making and Knowing project’, Art History, 39.2 (2016), 210–33.
, ‘Secrets of Craft and Nature in Renaissance France: A Digital Critical Edition and English Translation of BnF Ms. Fr. 640 (New York: Making and Knowing Project, 2020), available online at https://edition640.makingandknowing.org.
,Smith, Pamela, Amy R. W. Mayers and Harold J. Cook (eds), Ways of Making and Knowing: The Material Culture of Empirical Knowledge (Chicago: University of Chicago Press / Bard Graduate Centre, 2017).
Fashion and virtue: Textile patterns and the print revolution, 1520–1620’, special issue The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, 73, 2 (Fall 2015).
, ‘The origins of the English pillow lace industry’, Agricultural History Review, 21 (1973), 81–93.
, ‘Dowry or inheritance? Kinship, property, and women’s agency in Lisbon, Venice, and Florence (1572)’, Journal of Early Modern History, 11, 3 (2007), 197–238.
, ‘Bill for repairing the Crown Jewels for the Coronation of King James the First of England, June 4 1604, Edinburgh University EU Laing II 525, as reproduced in Historical Manuscripts Commission, Report on the Laing Manuscripts Preserved in the University of Edinburgh, vol. 1 (London: HMSO, 1914).
,Armour and Masculinity in the Italian Renaissance (Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2010).
,Fabric for seventeenth-century children and adolescents’ clothes’, Textile History, 34 (2003), 47–63.
, ‘The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and Their Wares in the Seventeenth Century (London: Hambledon, 1984).
,Spinning yarns: The archaeological evidence for hand spinning and its social implications, c. AD 1200–1500’, Medieval Archaeology, 60 (2016), 266–99.
, ‘Lorenzo de Medici at Home: The Inventory of the Palazzo Medici in 1492 (University Park: Penn State University Press, 2013).
,The significance of the secondhand trade in Europe, 1200–1600’, History Compass, 13, 6 (2015), 297–309.
‘Statuti et ordini della magnifica città di Pistoia sopra il vesire delle donne pubblicati il di diciotto settembre MDLVIII (n.p., 1563).
The Memoirs of James Spershott (Chichester: Chichester City Council, 1962).
,A Survey of London, Reprinted from the Text of 1603, ed. Charles Lethbridge Kingsford, 2 vols (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1971).
,A General View of the Agriculture of the East Riding of Yorkshire (York, 1812).
,All together respectably dressed: Fashion and clothing in Bruges during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries’ (PhD thesis, University of Antwerp, 2016).
, ‘Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2007).
,Fashion and innovation in early-modern Europe’, in Evelyn Welch (ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2016), 33–55.
, ‘Involuntary consumers? The eighteenth-century servant and her clothes’, Textile History, 33, 1 (2002), 9–21.
, ‘Product innovation in early modern London’, Past & Present, 168 (2000), 124–69.
, ‘Spinners and the law: Regulating yarn standards in the English worsted industries, 1550–1800’, Textile History, 44, 2 (2013), 145–70.
, ‘What were cottons for in the Industrial Revolution?’, in Giorgio Riello and Prasanan Parthasarathi (eds), The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles (Oxford: Oxford University Press / Pasold Research Fund, 2011), 307–26.
, ‘En ubenævnt Dansk kunstners levnets historie’, Samlinger til den Danske Historie, 2, 3 (1784), 134–58.
, ‘“A pair of grass-green woollen stockings”: The clothing of the rural poor in seventeenth-century Sussex’, Textile History, 43, 1 (2012), 5–22.
, ‘The Study of Dress History (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002).
,Line, L’industrie de la soie en Bas-Languedoc: XVIIe–XVIIIe siècles (Paris: Ecole des Chartes, 1995).
,The Pedlars Case Stated, Or, Some Remarks upon the Pedlars, and All Their Carrying of Goods Abroad to Proffer to Sale in All Cities, Towns, and Places throughout England and Wales, &c., in Order to the Prevention Thereof (London, 1691).
The Weavers’ True Case (London, 1719).
Les textiles au marché anversois au XVIe siècle’, in Erik Aerts and John Munro (eds), Textiles of the Low Countries in European Economic History (Proceedings of the Tenth International Economic History Congress, Leuven, August 1990), 76–86.
, ‘Economic Policy and Projects: The Development of a Consumer Society in Early Modern England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1978).
,Knitting and knitwear, c. 1500–1780’, in David Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), 562–84.
, ‘The fantastical folly of fashion: The English stocking knitting industry, 1500–1700’, in Negley B. Harte and Kenneth B. Ponting (eds), Textile History and Economic History: Essays in Honour of Miss Julia de Lacy Mann (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1973), 50–73.
, ‘The nature and properties of leather’, in Marion Kite and Roy Thomson (eds), Conservation of Leather and Related Materials (Abingdon: Routledge, 2006), 1–3.
, ‘The Mockado Doublet Project Report (unpublished document for the ‘Refashioning’ project, 2021).
, , , , and ,Reconstructing a Schwartz outfit’, in Ulinka Rublack, Maria Hayward and Jenny Tiramani (eds), The First Book of Fashion: The Book of Clothes of Matthaus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2015), 373–96.
, ‘The Martial Ethic in Early Modern Germany: Civic Duty and the Right of Arms (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2011).
, ,L’arte del sarto nel Medioevo: quando la moda diventa un mestiere (Bologna: Società editrice Il mulino, 2017).
,La bonneterie en Europe du XVIe au XVIIIe siècle’, Annales. Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 26, 5 (1971), 1118–32.
, ‘The diffusion of knitting in medieval Europe’, in Negley B. Harte and Kenneth G. Pointing (eds), Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E. M. Carus-Wilson (London: Heinemann Educational Books, 1983), 368–73.
, ‘The organization of the European textile industry from the thirteenth to the eighteenth century’, Journal of European Economic History, 17, 3 (1988).
, ‘Stitching Together: Good Practice Guidelines. Advice for Facilitators of Participatory Textile Making Workshops and Projects (Bournemouth: Stitching Together, 2020).
,The Age of Homespun (New York: Knopf, 2001).
,Hands deep in history: Pockets in men and women’s dress in western Europe, c. 1480–1630’, Costume, 51, 2 (2017), 148–70.
, ‘The western European woollen industries, 1500–1750’, in D. Jenkins (ed.), The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), vol. 1, 397–472.
, ‘The English Fur Trade in the Later Middle Ages (London: London Record Society, 2003).
,De gli habiti antichi et moderni di diverse parti del mondo (Venice: Damian Zanaro, 1590).
,The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas: Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni, ed. and trans. Margaret F. Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones (London: Thames and Hudson, 2008).
,Material culture: A source material to everyday life in early modern Eiderstedt, Schleswig’, Kieler Blätter zur Volkskunde, 35 (2003), 89–104.
‘Segreti di Leonardo da Vinci per ottenere “perle grosse”’, Arte Lombarda, 132, 2 (2001), 42–7.
, ‘Rural manufactures and patterns of economic specialization: Cases from the Venetian mainland’, in Paola Lanaro (ed.), At the Centre of the Old World: Trade and Manufacturing in Venice and the Venetian Mainland, 1400–1800 (Toronto: Centre for Reformation and Renaissance Studies, 2006), 343–66.
, ‘Concepts of Cleanliness: Changing Attitudes in France Since the Middle Ages (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1988).
,The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire: 1600–1780 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1931).
and ,Bravi and Venetian nobles, c. 1550–1650’, Studi veneziani, 36 (1998), 85–114.
, ‘Honour and the culture of male Venetian nobles, c. 1500–1650’ (PhD thesis, University of Cambridge, 1998).
, ‘American Baroque: Pearls and the Nature of Empire, 1492–1700 (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2018).
,A new interpretation of certain bobbin lace patterns in Le Pompe, 1559’, Textiles and Politics: Textile Society of America 13th Biennial Symposium Proceedings, Washington, DC, September 18 – September 22, 2012, https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/754/.
, ‘Consumer Behaviour and Material Culture in Britain, 1660–1760 (London: Routledge, 1996).
,The Account Book of Richard Latham, 1724–1767 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1990).
,Reval 1646 bis 1672: vom Frieden von Brömsebro bis zum Beginn der selbständigen Regierung Karls XI (Bonn: Kulturstiftung der Deutschen Vertriebenen, 1991).
,Art on the edge: Hair and hands in Renaissance Italy’, Renaissance Studies, 23, 3 (2008), 241–68.
‘Introduction’, in Evelyn Welch (ed.), Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2016).
, ‘New, old and second-hand culture: The case of the Renaissance sleeve’, in Revaluing Renaissance Art (Farnham: Ashgate, 2000), 101–19.
, ‘Scented buttons and perfumed gloves: Smelling things in Renaissance Italy’, in Bella Mirabella (ed.), Ornamentalism: The Art of Renaissance Accessories (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2011), 13–39.
, ‘Shopping in the Renaissance: Consumer Cultures in Italy, 1400–1600 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2005).
,The British Hosiery and Knitwear Industry: Its History and Organisation (New York: Barnes & Noble, 1972).
,A critique of approaches to “domestic work”: women, work and the pre-industrial economy’, Past & Present, 243 (2019), 35–70.
, ‘Consumption and Gender in the Early Seventeenth-Century Household: The World of Alice Le Strange (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2012).
,How did the feudal economy work? The economic logic of medieval societies’, Past & Present, 251 (2021), 3–40.
, ‘Phaidon Guide to Antique Weapons and Armour (New Jersey: Prentice Hall, 1981).
,Foggie diverse di vestire de’ Turchi: Turkish costume illustration and cultural translation’, The Journal of Medieval and Early Modern Studies, 37, 1 (2007), 97–139.
, ‘Cloth production and international competition in the seventeenth century’, Economic History Review, 13 (1960), 209–21.
, ‘Systema Agriculturae: The Mystery of Husbandry Discovered (London, 1675).
,Spanish fashion and sumptuary legislation from the thirteenth to the eighteenth century,’ in Giorgio Riello and Ulinka Rublack (eds), The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective c. 1200–1800 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2019), 243–72.
, ‘A Six Months Tour through the North of England, 4 vols (London, 1771).
,A Tour in Ireland: With General Observations on the State of that Kingdom, second edition, 2 vols (London, 1780).
,Nicht nur tierisch warm: Pelz in Kleidung und Mode’, in Georg Ulrich Großmann (ed.), Vom Ansehen der Tiere (Nuremberg: Germanisches Nationalmuseum, 2009), 118–31.
, ‘La nascita delle conterie veneziane’, Journal of Glass Studies, 47 (2005), 77–92.
, ‘