Index

Index

Note: page numbers in italic refer to illustrations

accessories
belt 172, 177, 179, 250
bonnet 65, 230
coif 249, 252
collar 199, 261, 2734
cravatta 81
cuffs 4, 158, 2156, 221, 233, 236, 274, 295
fan 2
garter 235, 238, 274
girdle 157, 165
gloves 2, 4, 103, 1523, 203, 240, 267, 276
goggles 103
hatband 2734
headscarf 215
mask 83
mittens 267
muff 4, 19, 81, 101, 231, 236
neckerchief 230
partlet 4
ruff 2723
shawl 251
sleeve 4, 81, 124, 159
socks 67, 1078, 110, 117
stockings 16, 19, 31, 33, 39, 434, 46, 50, 52, 66, 108, 127, 218, 233, 235, 242, 249, 265, 267, 2724, 276
sword belt 127
wigs 65
cap-maker 221
clockmaker 237
comb-maker 231
feather dealer 220
hat-maker 235
wig-maker 231
advice manuals 10, 43, 89, 101, 214, 286
book of secret and recipe books 14, 19, 801, 91, 1012, 203, 2045, 2801, 2845, 101, 289, 291
costume books 135, 144, 214, 2501, 25661
courtesy and conduct books 211, 222, 280
dye manuals, 105, 28991
pattern books 48, 259, 3001, 305
Alberti, Leon Battista 93
arms and armour
armour 1702, 1746, 179, 183, 274
dagger 172, 1767, 179, 181, 1834
knife 183
pistol 179
spear 183
sword 1712, 1767, 179, 181, 1834
arms-maker 176
arquebusier 179
armourer 273
Asia 17, 18, 29, 34
Biringuccio, Vannoccio 90
Casola da, Pietro 2
Cellini, Benvenuto 1823
colours and shades
black 46, 7980, 83, 90, 102, 105, 111, 1212, 125, 129, 164, 1701, 190, 2168, 221, 2346, 252, 256, 269, 2724, 28891
blue 42, 67, 83, 125, 218, 221, 258, 274, 288, 290
brown 31, 52, 79, 83, 107, 216, 235, 238, 240, 267, 2714, 288
colour of the kings 272
cream 5
crimson 85, 127, 140, 24950, 28890
dried rose, 83
dove neck 290
flesh 21718
green 4, 83, 87, 124, 2168, 2201, 255, 290
grey 46, 218, 2678, 273
pink 83, 124, 2178, 281, 288, 290, 299
purple 83, 2167, 288
red 18, 83, 88, 125, 2167, 218, 28991
sea-green 85
scarlet 289
tawny 83, 272
turquoise 142
yellow 4, 83, 108, 2167, 221, 235, 255, 268, 288, 2901, 299
construction workers
bricklayer 268
boat-builder 221
carpenter 89, 142, 175, 230, 268
mason 123, 13941, 176, 230
salary of 141, 173
Corsuccio, Giovan Andrea 1
Cortese, Isabella 91, 205
cotton 2831, 35, 4951, 66, 69, 83, 257
calico 30, 3941, 55
cotton-linen 36, 40
muslin 32, 35, 40
cotton spinner 42, 51
craftsmen and artists
bowl-painter 268
candle-maker 177
court artisans 1812, 251, 27476
cutlery-maker 91, 2023, 207
organ-builder 240, 271
painter 181, 274
tapestry-maker 181
trumpet player 176
turner 18, 2678, 274275
Della Casa, Giovanni 211, 222
Denmark
Copenhagen 2678, 273
Elsinore 26576, 280, 285
Odense 269
St. Olaf’s guild 230, 233, 236, 238
Dolce, Lodovico, humanist 137
dye baths
alkaline 103
alum 125, 140, 290
iron 125
lead 80, 1023, 105
potash 125, 291
quicklime 80, 1023, 105
sulphur 103
tannins 125
vitriol 291
dyes
alder bark 111, 125
brazilwood 216, 28990
cochineal 29, 125, 2812, 289
dyer’s broom 2901
grain, grana 84, 249, 28990
indigo 29, 125
insect dyes 18, 216, 289
kermes 125, 282, 290
logwood 12, 29, 125
madder 282, 28990
oak gall, 111, 125, 291
safflower 290, 293
saffron 152
weld 290, 291
woad 125, 290
Eleonora of Toledo 137, 139
Elizabeth I, queen of England 157
England
Bristol 1612
Cheddington 52
Coventry 45, 54, 75
Dorset 47
Essex 41
Hertfordshire 467
Hexham 47, 49
Ipswich 161
Lancashire 34, 42, 4952, 155
London 456, 54, 72, 75, 80, 84, 90, 92, 1545, 157, 161, 1634
Norfolk 35, 155
Northamptonshire 467, 52
Norwich 301, 32, 35, 54, 83, 152
Oxfordshire 41, 158
Pembrokeshire 158
Staffordshire 45
Suffolk 155
Thruscross 43
Wiltshire 29, 33
Worcestershire 41
Latham family 4952, 54
fakes, counterfeits, imitation 2, 4, 16, 65, 79, 80, 848, 905, 101, 202, 207, 222, 251
imitations of: amber 10, 12, 18, 91, 2024, 207
colour 2901
diamonds 95
fabrics 85, 87, 123, 220, 223
fur 12, 81, 101, 105
gems 2, 19, 80, 92, 206
gold and silver 70, 88, 92
pearls 2, 10, 16, 92, 143, 146, 2046
silk 30, 82, 85
wool 94
fraud 88, 90
see also mixed fabrics
fashion dolls 70
Finland
Bure, Elizabeth 107
Kalm, Pehr 47
Turku 10, 107, 108, 114, 117
Fioravanti, Leonardo 105
Florio, John 87, 284
footwear
boots 251, 265
clogs 250
shoelaces 238
shoes 68, 83, 93, 127, 240, 24950, 265, 271, 273
slippers 265, 267, 273
clog–maker 82
shoemaker 67, 1367, 146, 162, 174, 202, 204, 216, 218, 235, 2378, 240, 267, 269, 270, 2723
see also accessories
France
Lyon 712
Nimes 33
Paris 70, 72
Rouen 80
Fugger, Hans 80
Fulke, William, 84
fur
beaver 81, 101
cat pelt 80
ermine 101
leopard 12, 801, 90, 1012, 1056
lynx 7981, 95, 101, 102
marten 7981, 101, 221, 2368, 2412, 267, 269, 274
rabbit 801, 101, 103, 104
sable 7981, 101, 102, 2358, 2412, 272
squirrel 80, 81, 238
furrier 81, 101, 230, 237
garments
apron 18, 34, 50, 67, 69, 146, 218, 230, 24761, 270
bodice 221, 230, 235, 24950, 265
breeches 6, 667, 170, 171, 221, 2678, 2724, 281
cape, cloak 83, 88, 215, 21819, 230, 233, 235, 240
coat 7980, 238, 273
doublet 1, 5, 6, 83, 878, 170, 1745, 221, 233, 235, 252, 2678, 268, 269, 2724
duliman 81, 221
gamurra 217, 218
gown, overgown 42, 51, 81, 834, 87, 93, 140, 164, 171, 2156, 218, 2201, 235, 238, 240
hose 434, 83, 10910, 1278, 216
jacket 69, 221, 230, 233, 235, 238, 240
jerkin 170, 171, 175, 179, 265, 268, 274
kirtle 401
petticoat 403, 67, 70, 83, 85, 8788, 216, 230, 288
robe 216
shirts 4950, 534, 67, 218, 230, 252, 265, 267, 269, 2713, 288
skirt 41, 67, 69, 84, 218, 230, 233, 235, 242, 250, 2567
tabard 220
tunic 2678
turcha 221
waistcoat 240, 267, 268
zimarra 216
Garzoni, Tommaso 251
Germany 5, 54, 75
glass 2034, 206, 24950
glass-maker 93
glass-worker 206
grooming
bathing herbs 280
beard 102, 272
cleanliness 31, 142
combs 70, 152, 232
clothing brush 271
groomed appearance 2712, 276
hairbrush 271
hygiene 252, 269, 271, 280
mirrors 153, 192, 232
perfume 203, 280, 284
pomander 203
rosewater 285
toothpick 1612
comb-maker 231
soap-maker 179, 187
Grotius, Hugo 268, 269
Guazzo, Stefano 170, 185
hair
hair net 249
hair ornament 678, 143, 250
hairstyle 5, 253
see also accessories; grooming
Heywood, John 1512
India 29, 30, 32, 3840
international fashion influences 21922
Asian 18
exotic 18, 74, 80, 101, 106, 222, 223
foreign style 18, 90, 220
French style 934, 2201, 223
Genoese style 303
Hungarian style 80
Moorish 93, 183
oriental influences 220
Ottoman style 221, 223
Persian 69, 93
Spanish style 220, 274
Turkish style 93, 176, 183
Italy
Bologna 74, 92, 251
Ferrara 250, 258
Florence 10, 745, 79, 83, 120, 129, 137, 141, 1457, 17084, 21823, 249, 280
Genoa 74, 296
Mantua 83, 90
Milan, 70, 725, 90, 296
Naples 6970, 734, 83
Padua 54, 67, 71, 735
Pisa 136
Rome 74, 252
Siena 81, 83, 91, 120, 13547, 1757, 179, 203, 215, 2213
Turin 6970, 735
Venice 23, 33, 6874, 79, 91, 108, 1357, 144, 1756, 179, 21723, 2501, 265, 298
Vigevano 734
jewellery 159
bequests 164
fairs and 155
gifts 165, 215
ownership 13640, 1548, 161, 272
pedlars and 152
pledges 142
regulation of 146
sale of 141
jewellery items
Agnus Dei 136, 143, 165
beads (amber, coral, gold, silver, wood) 16, 18, 87, 1356, 139, 141, 146, 153, 156, 2035, 207, 24950
bezel 158, 162, 164
bracelet 136, 146, 151, 157, 204, 240
brooch 91, 159, 216
cameo 157
chains (copper, gold, silver) 88, 1567, 161
earrings 91, 13941, 143, 146
necklace 94, 1356, 13941, 1436, 151, 204, 240, 24950
pendant 146, 157, 165, 280
ring 135136, 139, 1413, 146, 158, 272
rosary 91, 136, 153, 203, 207
signet ring, 162, 1645
glass bead-worker 206
jewels and gemstones
amber 151
coral 91, 1356, 146, 164, 204, 240, 250
crystal 157, 165, 249
diamonds 164, 177, 240
emerald 91
ivory 274
lapis lazuli 146
pearls 17, 92, 94, 13547, 221, 238, 240, 274
ruby 91, 164, 135
sapphire 162
misshapen 1356, 139
seed pearls 13940, 142, 144
jeweller 142
knitting
child labour 38
frame-knitting 43
hosiery 40, 65, 75
knitting needles 19, 50, 124
knitting pattern 10910
knitwear 67, 212
machine-knitted 117
stockings 10, 16, 19, 31, 33, 39, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52, 115, 273, 276
hosier 162
see also reconstruction
lace
bobbin-lace 19, 31, 3940, 2956
cutwork 258, 296, 3001
needle lace 295, 3001, 303
reticella 295
lace-maker 297300, 3024
lace-making 29, 75, 2956, 2989
laundry and textile care
cleaning methods 2801, 286
herbs 284
hygiene 252, 269, 271, 280
moths, protection against 284
laundering 257
laundress 141
scent, 2845
Stain removal 2802, 284
starching 257
see also recipes
leather garments 129, 170, 175, 21920, 240, 257, 2679, 2723
skinner 80, 164
tanner 237
linen
bleached 312, 523
cambric 312, 51
canovaccio 258
demand for 312, 523
flax 27, 31, 345, 456, 4953, 67, 252
innovations 2755, 835, 87, 123, 125, 220
linen damask 48
linen-seller 220
linen weaver 89, 124, 161, 179
Lomazzo, Giovanni Paolo 171
Luigini, Federico 254
mariners 156, 161
marketplaces 213, 271, 276
fairs 2, 17, 65, 70, 1535, 261
pedlars 45, 53, 1514, 251, 261
ready-to-wear clothing 66
street-sellers 424, 247, 250, 252
Markham, Gervase 523
marriage
dowry 258, 261
love token 158, 162, 295
‘ring day’ 146
wedding 142, 145, 181, 231
wedding gift 215
wedding ring, fede 1356, 141, 158, 164
Mary I, queen of England 298
Medici de’
Giovan Carlo 251
Cosimo I 137, 173, 249
Ferdinando 7981, 101, 252
Lorenzo 174
merchants 87, 107, 162, 164
appearance 1701, 252
clothing inventories 23540
guild 228, 233
guild control 84
malpractice of 2512
ribbon trade and 6475
metal and metalwork
copper, as imitation of gold 88, 89 90, 1589, 162, 163
gold and silver (badges) 4
(buttons) 17, 87, 159, 161, 216, 238, 2401, 249, 261, 273
(lace) 66, 88, 237, 295, 299
(ribbons) 65, 69, 70, 239, 298
(thread) 85, 87, 215, 238, 240
iron 88, 90, 1745
metal and pewter buttons 16, 88, 89, 90
oricalco, as substitute for gold 92
steel 171, 174
blacksmith 176
coppersmith 280
goldsmith 7, 94, 137, 1402, 155, 177, 182, 271
silversmith 141, 235
tinsmith 237
Mitelli, Giuseppe Maria, 68, 248
mixed fabrics
bombazine 267
brocatel 83, 220
buratto 83, 93, 216
camlet, 42, 51, 835, 221
half-silk 3065
mezzalana 83
mocaiardo, mock velvet, mockado 10, 17, 836, 88, 1219, 190, 199, 216, 220
panno misto 83
silk-worsted mix 51
terzanello 216, 218
trip 83, 274
Netherlands
Dutch Republic 545, 90, 123, 157, 268
Holland 2930, 93, 274
Leiden 35, 54, 73
Paganino, Alessandro 301
Pagano, Matteo 259, 260
Parasole, Isabelle Catanea 3003
Paulli, Simon 2845
peasants and farmers 27, 28, 46, 52, 152, 170, 1834, 238, 2489
engagement with fashion 17, 43, 170, 228, 238, 24950
peasant costume 54
portraits of 251
prohibitions on clothing and jewellery 84, 146
farrier 141, 147
gardener 1357, 140, 147
miller 179, 215
vegetable-seller 248, 251
Pliny the Elder 143
recipes, ingredients of
anis 284
Armenian bole 205
Canada balsam 203
chanterelles 2812, 283
cherry-tree gum 91
clove 285
ginger 285
glue 91, 205
lemon 2812
litharge 102
mushrooms 2813
rosewater 285
snail shells 204, 205
tartar 2824
turpentine 91, 203, 204
quicksilver 205
reconstruction
as a methodology 8, 1015, 120, 12930, 190, 257, 3034
reconstruction experiments: aprons 25761
bobbin-lace 295305
colour 28893
digital animation and Clo3D 120, 198201
doublet 12030
embodied experience 1905
fake fur 1016
fake pearls and amber 2027
instructions 19, 1012, 110, 205, 281, 284, 286, 28991, 301
knitted stockings 10817
laboratory space 103
stain removal 28086
Reni, Guido 255, 256
Ristori, Francesco, waterseller 10, 121, 122, 1257, 12930, 190, 197
Rosetti, Gioanventura 105, 289
Ruscelli, Girolamo 801, 203
Russia 81, 236, 238
Schwartz, Matthäus 5, 7
Scotland 34
second-hand trade 23, 17, 65, 82, 90, 141, 215
auctions 137, 1401, 147
bartering 215
borrowing 232
buying on credit 142, 229
pawns, pawnshops 1402, 147, 156, 179, 230, 238, 243
second-hand goods 65, 129
stolen goods 154, 252
theft 401
second-hand dealer 172
sericulture
bombyx mori 11113
cocoons, silk worms, degumming, sericin 10, 323, 82, 112, 113, 114
reeling 114
throwing 75
servants 33, 34, 45, 84, 251, 288
pledging jewellery 141
prohibitions on clothing 234
shopkeepers 81, 203, 272, 276
apothecary 142, 152
baker 81, 179, 230, 267, 269, 2712
barber 141, 267, 269, 2734, 276
bookseller 94, 1767
draper 152
egg-seller 256
fishmonger 177, 216
foodseller 250
fruitseller 4
greengrocer 179
innkeeper 1757, 179, 295
oil-maker 204
rag-dealer 81, 221
sausage-maker 179
vegetable-seller 25
waterseller 122, 129
wine-seller 83
silk
bavella 84, 108
brocade 2, 18, 29, 41, 220, 2335, 242
caffa 233, 274
damask 2930, 42, 51, 82, 857, 140, 174, 221, 235, 242, 249, 274
drappo 84, 216
filaticcio 83, 215, 217
filusello 108
fleuret 65, 67, 71
grosgrain 29, 85, 272
plush 85, 233, 235, 237
samite 84, 176
sarcenet 4, 29, 83, 85, 249
satin 2930, 140, 216, 2201, 233, 249, 298
silk floss 299300
tabby 2
taffeta 4, 30, 123, 233, 235, 238, 242, 257, 281
velvet 1819, 2830, 33, 67, 823, 845, 87, 94, 1234, 127, 215, 2201, 233, 235, 240, 242, 249, 274, 281
waste silk 16, 31, 323, 65, 67, 701, 823, 108, 117, 217, 222, 223, 233
Spain 1, 84, 220, 222
storage boxes and chests for
bathing herbs 280
clothing 176, 179, 270, 284
jewellery 92, 1357, 142, 144
Stradano, Giovanni 1812
sumptuary legislation
absence of 54
as evidence 232
false gems 202
fur 236
mockado 83
pearls 137, 139, 1436
ribbons and trimmings 69, 84, 238, 240
silk 82, 234
sumptuary ‘tax’ 91
swords and daggers 172
tailors’ fines 174
Switzerland 54, 712, 75
Tagliente, Giovanni Antonio 301
tailoring and construction
baleen 193, 199
compass 125
eyelets 127
facings 124, 236
fitting 125, 190, 1923, 195
interlinings and linings 124, 102, 1934, 197, 199 200, 2345, 238, 268
padding 125, 191, 193
pinking 252
scissors 5
seams 67, 126, 199
slashing 2
thimble 260
whale bone 125
yardstick 125
seamstress 125, 174
tailor 59, 10, 67, 69, 122, 125, 161, 164, 174, 177, 190201, 213, 237, 252, 2702, 280
Tallinn 91, 22843
textile workshops and labour
apprentices 93, 111, 141, 269, 273, 288
journeymen 73, 269, 270, 271, 273
women and children 38, 40, 45, 534, 75, 273
travelling 70, 93, 152
travel accounts 2, 90, 255
travelling cases 151
trimmings and haberdashery
aglets 249
bands 4, 667, 127, 162, 258, 261
borders 51, 81, 216, 238; 302
braid 67, 6970, 73, 75, 238, 240, 2723
buckles 165, 171, 249
buttons 17, 878, 90, 159, 161, 216, 220, 238, 2401, 249, 261, 273
clasps 1557
cord 67, 83, 240, 255
edgings 216, 2956, 297, 298304
embroidery 67, 75, 240, 249, 254, 25761, 281, 296, 298300
fastenings 171
frills 4, 269, 272
fringes 67, 69, 249, 251, 256
galloons 66, 67, 70, 240
hooks 90, 127, 152, 155
laces 162, 240, 250
nets and netting 4, 220
ribbons 2, 4, 16, 189, 29, 31, 40, 435, 54, 6575, 82, 90, 152, 201, 212, 215, 216, 220, 23940, 24950, 261, 274
studs 24950
tassels 298
button-maker 231
cordwainer 237,
embroiderer 231,
haberdasher 152, 162, 164
hook-maker 268
mercer 65, 67, 68, 70, 72, 164, 165
ribbon-maker 65, 231
ribbon-makers’ guild 69, 70, 74
Vasari, Giorgio 93
Vecellio, Cesare 91, 135, 136, 214, 221, 2508, 261
Venezuela, ’Pearl Coast’, 138
wool
broadcloth 28, 30, 33, 233, 238, 240, 267, 272, 274
camel 83
catarzo 84
combed 2930, 36
felted 81, 272
fleece 40
hundskot 272
merino 35, 81
mohair 40, 83
perpetuana 31
perpignan 217
russet 40, 84, 240
say 28, 30
scarlet wool 282
serge 28, 30, 40
stamen 108
worsted 303, 35, 403, 467, 4952, 54, 114
Worlidge, John, Hampshire 34
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Refashioning the Renaissance

Everyday dress in Europe, 1500–1650

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