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Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

Threads of globalization: fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century represents the first collection of its kind devoted to imbrications of gender, textiles/fashion, labor, and heritage across Asia (India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Cambodia, the Philippines, China, Taiwan, Japan, the diaspora) during the long twentieth century. This richly illustrated interdisciplinary volume situates the production of fashion (specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production) at the nexus between modernity, tradition, and identity, bringing these factors into Pan-Asian dialogue. Exploring the impact of textiles and garments on both national and local cultural identity, as well as gender identity and personal expression, Threads of globalization also investigates how garment and textile production has influenced the creative agency of women. The final section examines examples of ‘artivism’ (art + activism) that critique the often-gendered structural violence and environmental impacts of the global fashion industry. Threads of Globalization’s uniquely interdisciplinary contributors – scholars of art history, history, fashion, anthropology, and curators working across Asia – provide a fresh and timely inquiry into these intersectional topics from the late nineteenth century to today.

Art, process, archaeology

This book presents a study of material images and asks how an appreciation of the making and unfolding of images and art alters archaeological accounts of prehistoric and historic societies. With contributions focusing on case studies including prehistoric Britain, Scandinavia, Iberia, the Americas and Dynastic Egypt, and including contemporary reflections on material images, it makes a novel contribution to ongoing debates relating to archaeological art and images. The book offers a New Materialist analysis of archaeological imagery, with an emphasis on considering the material character of images and their making and unfolding. The book reassesses the predominantly representational paradigm of archaeological image analysis and argues for the importance of considering the ontology of images. It considers images as processes or events and introduces the verb ‘imaging’ to underline the point that images are conditions of possibility that draw together differing aspects of the world. The book is divided into three sections: ‘Emergent images’, which focuses on practices of making; ‘Images as process’, which examines the making and role of images in prehistoric societies; and ‘Unfolding images’, which focuses on how images change as they are made and circulated. The book features contributions from archaeologists, Egyptologists, anthropologists and artists. The contributors to the book highlight the multiple role of images in prehistoric and historic societies, demonstrating that archaeologists need to recognise the dynamic and changeable character of images.

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Stitching together gender, textile and garment labor, and heritage in Asia
Melia Belli Bose

, small-scale cottage producers, and garment factory workers), and efforts to revive and preserve endangered heritage traditions. The disciplinary range of the volume’s contributors – scholars of art history, history, fashion, and cultural anthropology, and museum curators working in different regions of Asia – enable us to arrive at a fuller understanding of the confluences of fashion, identity, and gendered labor in Asia from a number of perspectives. This volume presents a fresh and timely inquiry into these intersectional

in Threads of globalization
Consuming gendered textiles in colonized Korea
Kyunghee Pyun

daebaekgwa sajeon 한국민족문화대백과사전] (Seongnam: Academy of Korean Studies, 1995). Conclusion: gendered labor As scholars of colonialism have argued, colonized people were essential consumers of cheap goods. The British Empire inundated the Indian market with coarse cotton textiles manufactured in Birmingham and Manchester. A popular belief of a hemp ensemble for the deceased was an ‘invented tradition’ in the colonized era by the Japanese intervention. As discussed by historians of Korean

in Threads of globalization
Transgender patients in early Swedish medical research
Julian Honkasalo

the making of trans in the context of feminist theorizing of intimate labour. In Ward’s theorization, ‘gender labor’ denotes multiple ways in which cis-lesbian, ‘femme’ women (who have sexual relationships with trans men), ‘give gender’ through validation, ‘bolstering their authenticity’ and ‘treating them like “real” men’ (Ward, 2010 : 80–1). Treating trans men as ‘real men’ involves according to Ward both the ‘labor of forgetting’, and learning a new ‘script’, that is, that a cis woman forgets her partner’s past as well as the sex assigned at birth (Ward, 2010

in Bodily interventions and intimate labour
Fredrik Fahlander

Belting, H. (2005). ‘Image, medium, body: a new approach to iconology’, Critical Inquiry 31 (2), 302–19. Bolger, D. (2014). ‘Gender, labor, and pottery production in prehistory’, in D. Bolger (ed.), A Companion to Gender Prehistory. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons Inc. (pp. 161–79.). Burström, M. (2013). ‘Fragments as something more: archaeological experience and reflection’, in A. González Ruibal (ed.), Reclaiming Archaeology: Beyond the Tropes of Modernity. London: Routledge (pp. 311–22). Chapman, J. (2000). Fragmentation in Archaeology: People, Places, and Broken

in Images in the making
Laura Suski

guarding against not only the threat of lead, but voicing a concern for a vulnerable ‘national body’. 51 As Chen also points out, the image of a vulnerable white child is promoted while the ongoing exposure of people of colour to risk is ignored: ‘An environmental history of toxic objects must minimally register the gendered, laboring, and chronically toxically exposed bodies of

in Global humanitarianism and media culture
Queer kinship, reproductive labour and biopolitics
Ulrika Dahl

. Ward , J. ( 2010 ) ‘ Gender labor: Transmen, femmes, and collective work of transgression ’ in Boris , E. and Parreñas , R. S . (eds) Intimate Labors: Cultures, Technologies, and the Politics of Care . Palo Alto, CA: Stanford University Press , pp. 78 – 93 . Weheliye , A. G. ( 2014 ) Habeas Viscus: Racializing Assemblages, Biopolitics, and Black Feminist Theories of the Human . Durham, NC: Duke University Press . Weston , K. ( 1991 ) Families We Choose: Lesbians, Gays, Kinship . New York : Columbia University Press . Zetterqvist Nelson

in Bodily interventions and intimate labour
Gabriele Griffin

) for the conduct of business. Boris and Parreñas ( 2010 : 14) argue that the processes described above have led to new forms of intimate labour among which they include ‘call center work, gender labor in the making of transsexual identity, surrogate mothering, and egg and sperm donation’. What these new forms of labour have in common is that they involve monetary reward for the performance of work that involves one-on-one contact and mobilizes direct bodily and psychosocial involvement on the part of the worker for the benefit of the receiving party. Viviana

in Bodily interventions and intimate labour
Film noir, gangster, gangster noir
Kinga Földváry

much blood in him?’ (5.1.37–8). 57 J. Buchanan, Shakespeare on Film (Harlow: Pearson Education Limited, 2005), pp. 105, 106. 58 Nicholls, ‘From Divestment to Due Resolution’ , 4. 59 Ibid . 60 Lanier, ‘Film Spin-Offs and Citations’ , p. 209. 61 Lam, ‘Gangsters and Genre’ . 62 Gardaphé, ‘The Gangster Figure in American Film and Literature’, p. 56. ( Little Caesar was released in the USA in January 1931.) 63 Mason, American Gangster Cinema , p. 81. 64 L. E. Ruberto, ‘Where Did the Goodfellas Learn How to Cook? Gender, Labor, and

in Cowboy Hamlets and zombie Romeos