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Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

Threads of globalization: fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century represents the first collection of its kind devoted to imbrications of gender, textiles/fashion, labor, and heritage across Asia (India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Cambodia, the Philippines, China, Taiwan, Japan, the diaspora) during the long twentieth century. This richly illustrated interdisciplinary volume situates the production of fashion (specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production) at the nexus between modernity, tradition, and identity, bringing these factors into Pan-Asian dialogue. Exploring the impact of textiles and garments on both national and local cultural identity, as well as gender identity and personal expression, Threads of globalization also investigates how garment and textile production has influenced the creative agency of women. The final section examines examples of ‘artivism’ (art + activism) that critique the often-gendered structural violence and environmental impacts of the global fashion industry. Threads of Globalization’s uniquely interdisciplinary contributors – scholars of art history, history, fashion, anthropology, and curators working across Asia – provide a fresh and timely inquiry into these intersectional topics from the late nineteenth century to today.

Open Access (free)
Culture, criticism, theory since 1990
Scott Brewster

in terms of discourse, hegemony and subject formation, and how various cultural forms were enmeshed within a wider, complex cultural politics.46 By the start of the 1990s Irish literature, and Irish Studies more widely, was encountering theory in a sustained fashion. Yet, as Terry Eagleton has acknowledged, just as cultural theory could illuminate aspects 9780719075636_4_002.qxd 28 16/2/09 9:23 AM Page 28 Contexts of Irish culture, so Ireland could cast light on the ‘repressions and evasions’ of theory, since categories central to the Irish experience – such

in Irish literature since 1990
Der Blaue Reiter and its legacies

This book presents new research on the histories and legacies of the German Expressionist group, Der Blaue Reiter, the founding force behind modernist abstraction. For the first time Der Blaue Reiter is subjected to a variety of novel inter-disciplinary perspectives, ranging from a philosophical enquiry into its language and visual perception, to analyses of its gender dynamics, its reception at different historical junctures throughout the twentieth century, and its legacies for post-colonial aesthetic practices. The volume offers a new perspective on familiar aspects of Expressionism and abstraction, taking seriously the inheritance of modernism for the twenty-first century in ways that will help to recalibrate the field of Expressionist studies for future scholarship. Der Blaue Reiter still matters, the contributors argue, because the legacies of abstraction are still being debated by artists, writers, philosophers and cultural theorists today.

Tereza Kuldova

moved to Berlin, a city increasingly perceived in popular imagination as cool, hip, and trendy, with an expanding number of gentrified areas and a booming market for slow fashion, local produce, craft beers, and all other things hip. The Berlin branch of the Ecole Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode, known as ESMOD Berlin, is the first branch of ESMOD to offer students masters degrees in sustainable fashion design and is now crucially involved with the Ethical Fashion Show. It is a school that caters to a select few; students are often from privileged

in European fashion
Ruby Chishti’s sartorial interventions
Saleema Waraich

). 8 Brooks, Clothing Poverty , p. 5. 9 Schlossberg, ‘Fast Fashion’; Tansy Hoskins, ‘Made in Britain: UK Textile Workers Earning £3 Per Hour,’ The Guardian , 27 February 2015, (accessed 2 August 2023). 10 Aditi Meyer and Ayesha Barenblat, ‘Why Fashion Brands are Today’s Masters,’ Eco Age , 6 November 2020, https

in Threads of globalization
Michael G. Cronin

, historical development and subjectivity underpinning that model. But we have not yet witnessed any notable renaissance of counter-discourses and alternative visions of human freedom – such as those offered by Marxism and feminism – and so these too are experiencing a crisis of 4147 Inglis–Are the Irish different_BB_Layout 1 29/07/2014 09:27 Page 243 Irish studies between the past and the future 243 narrative; a moment of painful reflection about why these narratives are not proving persuasive and compelling in any sustainable fashion. Thinking about the future of Irish

in Are the Irish different?
Abstract only
Marianne Hanson

light of the dramatically changed – and vastly improved – political landscape of the early to mid 1990s. There was a failure to consolidate the peace between the great powers which the end of the Cold War had provided, by shaping the world and its international security architecture in a more inclusive, equitable, and sustainable fashion. Continuing to retain high levels of nuclear weapons was a

in Challenging nuclearism
Abstract only
Stephen Benedict Dyson

. President Bush, committed emotionally and intellectually to the ‘stay and democratize’ approach, did not engage in a sustained fashion sufficient to uncover the extent of his differences with the secretary of defence. He made decisions when clear options were brought to him, and made interjections into the debate that ensured that Rumsfeld’s exit strategy was not implemented. But he did not, until the surge

in Leaders in conflict
Steven King

mid-1810s were different in scale and complexion. From this point medical welfare as a proportion of all spending increased in a sustained fashion, and the study has argued that once we allow for source lacunae which mean that we detect only a sub-sample of all spending on sickness, the sick poor were by some distance the key client group of the Old Poor Law by the 1820s. The so-called crisis of the Old Poor Law elides with sickness and response rather than the rise of the able-bodied welfare recipient. The response itself increasingly came to be numerically

in Sickness, medical welfare and the English poor, 1750–1834
Abstract only
Richard Hillman

– the promise associated with his son in more sustained fashion – but also that civil war might be avoided. To pursue the historical parallel – as is done at some length, given that modern readers are not generally familiar with the facts or their textual representations – is to activate hitherto unsuspected material resonances at the very level of the play most widely considered to reflect Shakespeare

in French origins of English tragedy